First a line is drawn 18mm back from the edge of the skeg, directly behind each lashing notch described in the previous post. I then used a 1/2" Forstner bit in my drill press to drill a hole at dead center in the line, at each end of the notched area.
Two quick cuts between the holes with a jigsaw removes all the material in between, leaving a slot that is 1/2" wide, centered 3/4" (18mm) back from the edge.The slots are filled with a thickened epoxy mixture that is about the consistancy of ketchup, so that it will self-level and completely fill the area. I first taped pieces of poly plastic to the other side of the slot to prevent the epoxy from running out. These large slots cannot be filled in one step, as the epoxy would get too hot if it were all poured in at once. This could cause it to expand and leave air pockets inside, so I'm doing the fill pours in stages, probably 3 or 4 separate steps, allowing at least partial curing in between. When these are finished, I'll cut the rudder slots and do the same, then sand all these surfaces, mark the exact lashing holes, and drill them out on the drill press. I know I'll thank myself for all this extra work when it comes time to hang the rudders on the finished hulls. And with a good quality Dacron line for the lashings, the rudder attachments won't need attention for years to come.








1 comment:
Scott
The rope lashings worked well enough for the 51-foot Wharram Rapa Nui so they'll sure work on your boat. Here's links to the photos:
http://atomvoyages.com/images/Hans07kb68.jpg
http://atomvoyages.com/images/Hans08kb78.jpg
James
s/v Atom
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