Thursday, February 25, 2010

Sail and Rigging Decisions

While the weather here has been consistently cold for efficient outdoor epoxy work, I've been putting together my materials and gear lists for the final push to completion and the outfitting of my boat. As always, I need more epoxy and fillers. This is endless it seems, and I don't even want to think about how much I've spent on this stuff. The last big piece of the boat to be built is the cockpit, and with a more complex design incorporating lockers under the seats, it will take a good bit of epoxy, fiberglass and fillers to build it.

Having sewn my own jib from a Sailrite kit, I'm now debating whether to order the mainsail kit or order a complete main from Rolly Tasker Sails in Thailand. Buying a complete one would save a week or more of labor. Buying the kit would save a few hundred dollars. It's more a matter of deciding which final product I would like the best. I'm impressed with the Sailrite jib and putting it together was straightforward, the greatest difficulty being the lack of an adequate large space that would have made sewing the panels simpler.

I'm also waiting on a couple of quotes on synthetic rigging components, as I will definately be rigging the boat with Dynex Dux or Amsteel synthetic standing rigging, and Precourt or Colligo terminators and chainplate distributors. I'm doing away with the plywood shroud lashing pads and replacing them with custom-fabricated SS chainplates, as this will make stepping and unstepping the mast easier and more secure.

Other things that need to be ordered now include the main watertank for the port hull, which will be connected to the pump in my built-in galley sink, along with the pump and plumbing fittings for that. I've decided on a flexible bladder tank for this as this type will allow me to fit a larger capacity tank in the limited space under the bunks, forward of bulkhead #3.

I need another piece of 1/4 inch Lexan to get out the companionway drop boards, as I sized the openings too large to cut them from the piece David Halladay gave me last time I was in the Boatsmith shop working with him.

There's still a good bit of fairing and filling to do on the cabin sides and tops, as well as the stern decks, before I can finish priming and painting. Then I can install the fixed and opening portlights and hatches, and build the companionway hatches, and at that point - at last - the hulls can be moved completely out from under the shed to free up that space for finishing the beams and cockpit. What I need most of all for that is warm, dry weather - and the free time to work on the boat.

3 comments:

Ed said...

Hi Scott,
Interesting timing. I'm getting a quote on the Dux for my Heavenly Twins 26 also. My initial guess is it's about 20% over the cost of wire. But I think the benefits are worth it. I'm replacing everything Tangs to chain plates.
Ed

Michael said...

Hello Scott,

Very interested in your chainplate setup. I would think you only need to replace the forward shroud-pads since they are closest to the hinging point of the mast. The after-ones will go slack very quickly, loosing their guideing task. I too am waiting for warmer weather. I can't wait to start assembling my own boat.

Regards Michael
Castor & Pollux

Scott B. Williams said...

I've ordered the deadeyes from Precourt and stainless steel blanks (3/16" by 1 1/2 x 12") for the chainplates. Will post photos as soon as these arrive.