Deck Hardware

I'm at the point now where I've got to start spending money on hardware and fittings, as the cockpit is the last big construction project on the build and it's now done except for fairing and painting.  Before painting though, I want to build in mountings port and starboard inboard of the seat for the sheet winches.  A trip to the coast was required last Friday to pick up these Harken self-tailers, along with bow and stern deck cleats and a pair of line chocks to mount on the front crossbeam.  I was able to get the winches at a wholesale discount and the cleats I found at a lock commercial fishing supply house that carries a lot of items not found in the regular marine discount stores:

Winches are not absolutely necessary on a Tiki 26, but I wanted to avoid the two-part jib sheets using blocks on short strops attached to the clew of the jib, as those can crack a skull when the sail is out of control and they involve a lot more line in the cockpit to deal with on every tack.  The self-tailers are a luxury, but they eliminate the need for jib sheet cleats and make everything easier when single-handing.  These winches can handle up to a 1/2" line, so they could come in handy for kedging off the beach as well, which is why they must be mounted to solid platforms.

I was specifically looking for well-made deck cleats with a  two-hole pattern instead of the more common Herreshoff style, as the mounting bolts will go directly through the center of the deck beams laminated under the decks.  They will be mounted on these raised teak pads that are epoxied to the decks, and of course will have heavy backing plates under the deck beams.

The bow and stern deck cleats will mainly be used for tying up at the dock.  For anchoring, I will carry the two ends of a bridle to cleats I had already mounted on the outboard corners of the cabin tops.  This way it will be easier to adjust the scope of the rode without going all the way to the bows.  I set up a bridle in the yard to check for the best position to mount the chocks on the forward beam.  These will help keep the bridle centered and prevent chafe where the rode crosses the top of this beam.

You might have noticed the slatted catwalk in the photo above that is now taking the place of the cypress foredeck I built previously.  I decided that for my purposes, the lighter catwalk with tramps or netting on either side would be better than the weight of the deck.  The time and materials that went into it were not wasted, as the Tiki 26 owner that I am building beams, rudders and a mast for also wanted me to build an identical deck for his boat, and so has purchased the original now that I won't be using it.  Here is a better view of the catwalk.  This was much quicker and easier to build than the deck. It is also made of cypress and will match the stern boarding ladder:

Here is another shot from the bow showing the overall deck and cockpit layout.  The aft most rails that extend to the aft net beam will also support the ladder that will raise and lower between them, as well a provide a place to mount a solar panel out of the shade of the sails.

Here's an overview from astern.  The perspective is a bit distorted because of the wide angle lens I used to get everything in the frame:

The weather is good for boat work right now and I have lots of projects going simultaneously.  The top priorities are finishing the cockpit and getting it painted, building the stern ladder, making trampolines or fitting nets (I haven't made a final decision on those yet), installing the rudders, making the tillers and tiller bar, and assembling the new aluminum mast from 6061 tubing, as well as building the gaff.