tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-374876072024-03-21T07:08:36.755-05:00Element II: A Wharram Tiki 26 CatamaranThis journal will detail the building of the Wharram Tiki 26 catamaran, Element II. My choice of design in a voyaging boat to build is the result of 20 years of experience traveling in sea kayaks and small sailboats ranging from a double outrigger canoe to a traditional monohull keelboat. I have built and sailed a Wharram Hitia 17, and restored and sailed the Tiki 21 I named Element.Scott B. Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10984429607322718345noreply@blogger.comBlogger169125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37487607.post-62017670963367804622015-01-19T10:16:00.000-06:002015-01-19T10:16:32.483-06:00Sailing the Apocalypse: A Misadventure at SeaEven though I'm not building another Wharram catamaran at present, they are obviously on my mind a lot as they keep coming up as the featured vessels in my fiction projects. For those of you who may not have seen it on my main website or other blogs, I have a new book out that was just released this past weekend. <br />
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<i>Sailing the Apocalypse: A Misadventure at Sea</i>, is the story of a man who is obsessed with the idea of building a big Wharram cat (Tiki 46) to get his family away from what he believes is a country on the verge of collapse. Terry Bailey has done his research and knows the advantages and virtues of a Wharram for his purpose. He greatly overestimates both his boatbuilding and sailing experience, however, and the story becomes a series of screw-ups and misadventures as he forges on with more determination than good seamanship. This book, at 304 pages, is the first in what will be an ongoing series that follows this family's adventures. I think most Wharram enthusiasts, as well as boatbuilders and sailors in general will be able to relate. The full description is posted below the cover image. You can get a copy of <i>Sailing the Apocalypse</i> in either ebook or paperback from the links at the bottom of this post.<br />
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<b><span style="font-family: times new roman;"><span style="font-size: 24px;">Terry Bailey is convinced America is doomed, and the last hope for his family is to escape to sea.</span><span style="font-size: 24px;"> </span></span></b><b><span style="font-family: 'times new roman';"><br /></span></b></div>
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How far would you go to protect your family if you were convinced America was in imminent danger of collapse? Would you build an underground bunker and stockpile it with weapons and supplies? Buy a cabin in the woods and start growing all your own food? Sell everything off and move to a survivalist’s stronghold in the mountains of Idaho?</div>
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None of the above would be enough if you were obsessed with boats the way Terry Bailey is obsessed.Terry has an escape plan to sail to the very ends of the earth; the only real option left to survive what’s coming, according to him. Convincing his new wife, teen stepdaughter and preteen stepson that time is running out, he sells his recently-acquired family on the necessity to build a boat. Two years of hard labor later, Terry has his ship—a huge ocean-going catamaran sloppily cobbled together from plywood and epoxy in their backyard in north Mississippi. </div>
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When the ship is ready to launch, Terry christens her the <i>Apocalypse</i>, and the four of them move aboard for good, bidding farewell to life on land along with everything and everyone they had known before that day. There is no need to wait for a disaster to strike, because Terry Bailey has created his own. Now he is about to drag his entire family over the horizon with him. <i>Sailing the Apocalypse</i> is the story of a man who is about to go too far, and is told from the perspective of the twelve-year-old stepson who watches it all unfold as he is swept along for the ride.</div>
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<i>Sailing the Apocalypse </i>is available in ebook form from <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QOK1M3O/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00QOK1M3O&linkCode=as2&tag=scottsboatpag-20&linkId=JGXESH7VMUFTV4ER">Amazon Kindle</a>, <a href="https://itunes.apple.com/us/book/id949241883">Apple iBooks</a>, <a href="http://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/sailing-the-apocalypse-scott-b-williams/1120870661?ean=2940151738958&itm=1&usri=2940151738958">Barnes & Noble</a>, and <a href="http://store.kobobooks.com/en-US/ebook/sailing-the-apocalypse-a-misadventure-at-sea">Kobo</a>. </div>
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You can get the paperback from <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Sailing-Apocalypse-Misadventure-Scott-Williams/dp/1505997798/ref=tmm_pap_title_0">Amazon</a> and <a href="http://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/sailing-the-apocalypse-scott-b-williams/1121084001?ean=9781505997798">Barnes & Noble</a>. </div>
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Both formats are available in the various Amazon stores worldwide as well (UK, France, Germany, Australia, etc.).</div>
Scott B. Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10984429607322718345noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37487607.post-37472231088971271312014-09-04T11:16:00.000-05:002014-09-04T11:16:25.312-05:00More Wharram Catamaran Fiction!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I may not be building a Wharram catamaran right now, but I'm still writing about them. Some of you may have read my first novel, <i><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0088NCM84/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0088NCM84&linkCode=as2&tag=scottsboatpag-20&linkId=IJ5EXUDXCK3QITYT">The Pulse</a>, </i>published in 2012. If you did, you know that a 36-foot Wharram cat featured prominently in the action. I have now completed the sequel to <i>The Pulse</i>, and <i><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1612432956/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=1612432956&linkCode=as2&tag=scottsboatpag-20&linkId=U2GE236VIO2QZOM6">Refuge After the Collapse</a> </i>picks up where the first book ended, with Larry Drager anchored aboard his 36-foot Wharram near the blacked-out and anarchy-filled chaos of New Orleans in the wake of a devastating solar flare. <br />
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<i><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1612432956/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=1612432956&linkCode=as2&tag=scottsboatpag-20&linkId=U2GE236VIO2QZOM6">Refuge</a> </i>will be shipping from Amazon and available at other retailers and bookstores on or before September 23. I'm posting here to let those of you who still stop by know that I'm having a book giveaway of 10 signed copies to be mailed out as soon as I have them available. All you have to do to enter to win is sign up for my new email newsletter:<br />
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<a href="http://eepurl.com/1lvdj"><b>Scott B. Williams Newsletter</b> </a></div>
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My current work in progress also features a big Wharram catamaran, but is an unrelated story. I think all Wharram enthusiasts will find it humorous and highly entertaining. Sign up for the newsletter and you'll be among the first to know when <i>Sailing the Apocalypse</i> is available:<br />
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<br />Scott B. Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10984429607322718345noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37487607.post-19532806489643435642013-08-05T09:00:00.001-05:002013-08-05T09:00:19.878-05:00Element II Sold Last AugustA year passes really fast when you're busy, but I did intend to update this site long before now. Many readers here already know that I sold the Tiki 26 last year, but for those who may be wondering why I haven't updated the build when the boat was so close to launching, now you know. <br />
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As the boat neared completion, I began to realize that it wouldn't meet all my needs in a boat in more ways than one. Of course no single boat can - they all are compromises in one way or another and it's difficult to find one that has a set of compromises you can live with. This realization happened to coincide with the desires of another Tiki 26 owner who was refitting a tired example of the design to get on the water much faster than the rate at which he was making progress. Long story short, he made a good offer and I accepted it, knowing that if I decided I want to sell it later after launching, it might take a really long time to find a buyer willing to pay what it was worth to me. Readers of this blog will be well aware of the quality of construction and attention to detail that went into <i>Element II. </i><br />
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Below are a few photos taken when the boat was loaded onto the new owner's trailer. It will be renamed, and has already been painted a different color, but still is not in the water. When I get photos of it sailing, I will post those here as well.<br />
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This is one of the last photos taken before we started disassembly. The cockpit had not yet been painted, and of course the next step for me would have been to begin the rigging so the mast could be stepped:<br />
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The new owner already had a custom-built, expandable trailer designed for a Tiki 26. Getting the hulls on the trailer without a crane was the hardest part of the operation. As it turned out, the open carport in the front of my house had just enough overhead clearance so that we could hoist the hulls to the ceiling one at a time and back the trailer under them for loading.<br />
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Getting the port hull on went smoothly. The trailer had to be moved out of the way to get the starboard hull in position and hoisted.<br />
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Loading the second hull was a lot more tricky, with not nearly as much room to work with. We managed to do it though, without anything even getting scratched.<br />
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Here is the whole rig, with hulls, beams, cockpit, mast and all assorted parts lashed down and ready for the road. It all fit on the trailer, with lots of small parts and left over supplies stashed down below in the hulls.<br />
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The proud new owners of <i>Element II, </i>a father and son team who have big plans for adventurous sailing. They moved the boat to the Texas Gulf Coast where the final fitting out and launching will be done.<br />
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So, after <i>Element II </i>was gone, I had lots of empty space in my backyard and boatbuilding shed. But when I made the decision to sell, I never really planned to start another build. It's been far too long since I've been on the water. Since I wanted a boat with more interior accommodations than the Tiki 26 could offer, that meant I was looking at monohulls again. It took a long time to find just the right one, but last month I purchased this Carl Alberg-designed Cape Dory 27 in Florida and sailed her home to Biloxi, which will be my base for cruising adventures.<br />
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You can read more about it on my <i>Scott's Boat Pages </i>blog, <a href="http://scottsboatpages.blogspot.com/2013/07/sailing-my-new-to-me-boat-home.html">here</a>. This Tiki 26 build blog will stay live for future reference to anyone building this design. Comments are still open, and I will also still try and answer questions any builders may have by email. Thanks for reading. Scott B. Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10984429607322718345noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37487607.post-5778971962150599322012-06-26T17:18:00.000-05:002012-06-27T09:58:26.174-05:00Wharram Catamaran Featured in NovelAs many of you know, I've been writing books for years and now have seven nonfiction titles published, all of them related in some way to the subjects of boats or survival or both. I have now written a novel, which has been published by Ulysses Press, of Berkeley, California, and has been released in <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1612430546?ie=UTF8&tag=scottsboatpag-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=1789&creativeASIN=1612430546">print form </a>this week (the <a href="http://www.amazon.com/The-Pulse-Surviving-Collapse-ebook/dp/B0088NCM84/ref=tmm_kin_title_0?ie=UTF8&m=AG56TWVU5XWC2">Kindle</a> and other E-book formats will be available on or before July 10). <br />
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I wanted to mention this here for those of you who may not visit my other sites, as this novel is a post-Apocalypitc tale in which a 36-foot Wharram catamaran is featured in much of the action. Here's a look at the cover:<br />
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While part of the story takes place in New Orleans and later in the river swamps of south Mississippi, as this cover image suggests, the other part begins in the Caribbean, where Artie Drager, one of the main protagonists is on an offshore passage with his brother, who is a yacht delivery skipper. While they are still far from land between Martinique and St. Thomas, a series of powerful solar flares shuts down GPS satellites and all other communications, and destroys practically all complex electronic circuitry. Artie, who was just visiting the islands on a short vacation, is now cut off from his only daughter, who is a college student at Tulane University, in New Orleans, and is frantic to get back to the mainland and find her after the pulse event. <br />
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They continue on to St. Thomas, where they discover that the power grid shutdown is widespread and complete, and leave the yacht there as Artie's brother, Larry, has contracted to do. In his spare time between delivery jobs, Larry has been building a Wharram Tiki 36 catamaran as his own personal boat, and they make their way to the build site on Culebra to quickly ready it for launch, despite the fact that it is still in primer and most systems are uninstalled. The big, shallow-draft Wharram cat will have many advantages in this new world of chaos and uncertainty, and confident they can reach New Orleans and find Artie's daughter, they sail for Florida and the Gulf beyond. Here's a description from the press release from my publisher:<br />
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<b><i>A Compelling Novel of Surviving the Collapse of the Grid</i></b><br />
<i>When an intense electromagnetic pulse instantly destroys the power grid throughout North America, there's no guarantee of survival. And that's what Tulane University student Casey Drager quickly realizes as desperate citizens panic and anarchy descends. Surrounded by chaos, Casey must save herself from the havoc in the streets of New Orleans. </i><br />
<i>Meanwhile, thousands of miles away, her father, Artie, finds himself warding off pirate attacks and tackling storms on his Caribbean sailing vacation-turned-nightmare. Using the stars to guide him toward the states, he wonders if he'll ever be able to find his daughter. </i><br />
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<i>The first novel from best-selling survivalist author Scott B. Williams, <b>The Pulse </b>is a thrilling narrative of survival amid the violence and disorder following the catastrophic destruction of America's power grid. "The Pulse reveals what it would take to survive in a world lit only by firelight," Williams explains. "Where all the rules have changed and each person must fend for himself."</i><br />
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I've been wanting to write a novel with lots of sailing action for as long as I've been writing, and now I've finally gotten around to it. If you decide to check it out, I hope you enjoy it and that you will give me your feedback. There will likely be a sequel as the ending opens the door for the next part of the story to continue. Here's a review that was posted this morning on Boat Bits, one of my favorite sailing blogs, which is written by a full-time liveaboard cruiser and former Wharram owner: <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;"><a href="http://boatbits.blogspot.com/2012/06/pretty-good-book.html">http://boatbits.blogspot.com/2012/06/pretty-good-book.html</a></span><br />
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</div>Scott B. Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10984429607322718345noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37487607.post-70782909528773951562012-06-19T21:25:00.000-05:002012-06-19T21:25:12.070-05:00Deck HardwareI'm at the point now where I've got to start spending money on hardware and fittings, as the cockpit is the last big construction project on the build and it's now done except for fairing and painting. Before painting though, I want to build in mountings port and starboard inboard of the seat for the sheet winches. A trip to the coast was required last Friday to pick up these Harken self-tailers, along with bow and stern deck cleats and a pair of line chocks to mount on the front crossbeam. I was able to get the winches at a wholesale discount and the cleats I found at a lock commercial fishing supply house that carries a lot of items not found in the regular marine discount stores:<br />
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Winches are not absolutely necessary on a Tiki 26, but I wanted to avoid the two-part jib sheets using blocks on short strops attached to the clew of the jib, as those can crack a skull when the sail is out of control and they involve a lot more line in the cockpit to deal with on every tack. The self-tailers are a luxury, but they eliminate the need for jib sheet cleats and make everything easier when single-handing. These winches can handle up to a 1/2" line, so they could come in handy for kedging off the beach as well, which is why they must be mounted to solid platforms. <br />
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I was specifically looking for well-made deck cleats with a two-hole pattern instead of the more common Herreshoff style, as the mounting bolts will go directly through the center of the deck beams laminated under the decks. They will be mounted on these raised teak pads that are epoxied to the decks, and of course will have heavy backing plates under the deck beams. <br />
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The bow and stern deck cleats will mainly be used for tying up at the dock. For anchoring, I will carry the two ends of a bridle to cleats I had already mounted on the outboard corners of the cabin tops. This way it will be easier to adjust the scope of the rode without going all the way to the bows. I set up a bridle in the yard to check for the best position to mount the chocks on the forward beam. These will help keep the bridle centered and prevent chafe where the rode crosses the top of this beam.<br />
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You might have noticed the slatted catwalk in the photo above that is now taking the place of the cypress foredeck I built previously. I decided that for my purposes, the lighter catwalk with tramps or netting on either side would be better than the weight of the deck. The time and materials that went into it were not wasted, as the Tiki 26 owner that I am building beams, rudders and a mast for also wanted me to build an identical deck for his boat, and so has purchased the original now that I won't be using it. Here is a better view of the catwalk. This was much quicker and easier to build than the deck. It is also made of cypress and will match the stern boarding ladder: <br />
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Here is another shot from the bow showing the overall deck and cockpit layout. The aft most rails that extend to the aft net beam will also support the ladder that will raise and lower between them, as well a provide a place to mount a solar panel out of the shade of the sails. <br />
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Here's an overview from astern. The perspective is a bit distorted because of the wide angle lens I used to get everything in the frame: <br />
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The weather is good for boat work right now and I have lots of projects going simultaneously. The top priorities are finishing the cockpit and getting it painted, building the stern ladder, making trampolines or fitting nets (I haven't made a final decision on those yet), installing the rudders, making the tillers and tiller bar, and assembling the new aluminum mast from 6061 tubing, as well as building the gaff.Scott B. Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10984429607322718345noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37487607.post-37176991069898892732012-06-06T21:04:00.000-05:002012-06-06T21:04:30.958-05:00Cockpit Seats FittedToday was one of those pivotal points in building a boat, like turning a hull or first connecting together the two hulls of a catamaran. The big deal today was that I was able to actually sit in the cockpit for the first time, which makes it actually feel like a boat, rather than a collection of parts. My friend and long time canoeing buddy, Ernest Herndon came over for the afternoon, and I enlisted his help in moving the cockpit around to the boat and lifting it into place on the beams. Then we had a couple beers on board while I made some measurements and marked things that needed marking while all this was temporarily assembled. One thing I checked was the bimini frame that I salvaged off my old boat, <i>Intensity. </i>Much to my delight, I discovered that it will work with some modifications and widening of the bows by use of splines. This will save me several hundred dollars and with my Sailrite sewing machine, I should be able to duplicate the old cover in whatever new color of Sunbrella I choose for <i>Element II. </i>No photos of the bimini, as we were too busy holding it up to use the camera, but here I'm testing out the helmsman's seat to starboard.<br />
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Ernest is more a river person than an ocean sailor, and didn't care for sailing on my rolling monohull when I had it, but did like the Hitia 17. He seemed to approve of all the deck space on <i>Element II </i>and I'm sure he will like the smoother motion. <br />
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Before I could test fit the new seats/hatch covers, I had to fabricate and install the hinges that attach them to the side flanges I made to span the gap between the cockpit and the hulls. I wanted to use the lashing method, just like the rudders, so I made the vertical parts out of teak and the horizontal parts right in the plywood, using epoxy inserts just as I did on the rudders. Here is a shot showing the teak parts being glued down to the flanges. The lashing will be removed for finishing and painting:<br />
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These rope hinges are really slick. The are rock-solid, quiet in operation, and look really cool:<br />
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This aft compartment to starboard will house the ship's batteries. You can see the large PVC outlet that will carry the wiring into the starboard hull to the circuit panels. <br />
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On the port side of the cockpit, the aft locker will hold the fuel tanks for the outboard. I've bulkheaded this one off from the forward locker to port so there is no wiring inside the fuel locker. The locker will also be properly vented and is fitted with a drain, unlike the other three. Here you can see how the fuel line is routed through the PVC tube glassed into the aft end of the cockpit, to get it to the outboard well and keep it from underfoot. This locker will hold three of the standard 3-gallon Nissan fuel tanks:<br />
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I didn't want to have to do it, but while Ernest was here to help, we removed the cockpit again and moved it back to the carport where I will do the final fairing and painting. The seats have to be glassed as well, then once they are painted they will be rejoined to the side flanges with lashings. These side flange assemblies work great, and will allow me to remove the seat covers in one unit per side and stow them in the cabins when the boat is trailered for launch, reducing the weight of the cockpit.Scott B. Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10984429607322718345noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37487607.post-11670289477788255552012-06-04T21:12:00.000-05:002012-06-05T04:33:45.956-05:00A Few Photos from the Florida RendezvousI wouldn't have missed the 2012 Spring Wharram Rendezvous in Islamorada, Florida this year for anything. This was the best one yet, as James Wharram and Hanneke Boon were there to answer questions, talk about the Wharram cats in attendance, and sign copies of their design book and Two Girls, Two Catamarans<i>. </i>Their visit was made possible by David Halladay, of Boatsmith, who hosted their trip to Florida and gave them a tour of his new shop as well as a day of sailing on one of the Tiki 8-Meter cats he built for a charter operation in Marco Island. The rendezvous itself, of course, was put together once again by Tangaroa Mark IV owner and Islamorada resident, Dan Kunz, who works tirelessly to make these events the best they can be.<br />
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I won't do a full report of the rendezvous here, as I just completed an article for <i>Southwinds</i> magazine that will run in the July issue. When it is published I will post the link here. But I did want to share a few photos for those of you who couldn't be there.<br />
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This was the scene on the beach at the Lorelei Restaurant, where there were four cruising Wharram cats pulled right up the the shore, from left to right: Tiki 30, Tiki 26, Tanenui, and Tiki 31.<br />
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Two schooner-rigged Wharrams: Vince Cameron's Tanenui to the left and Thom delForge's Tiki 31. I was excited to examine these boats up close, as the Tanenui and Tiki 31 are two Wharram designs I had never seen in person before. <br />
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Both of them were really beautiful boats:<br />
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There was also an exceptional Tiki 30 present: Ray Barkley's <i>Mahiya, </i>which he built in the Philippines at Andy Smith's yard. This boat had lots of really nice touches that could be incorporated into other designs such as the Tiki 26. I took lots of close-up photos of some of the more interesting details, but here is a shot showing how well-appointed this vessel is:<br />
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Shown here in front of Ray's boat is Gene Perry's Tiki 26 <i>Inseparable. </i>Gene, who sailed down from Hobe Sound at the age of 87, is a truly inspirational Wharram sailor. He is without doubt James Wharram's biggest fan and supporter in Florida, having been an enthusiast since he built the first Tiki 21 in the U.S. right after the design won a <i>Cruising World </i>magazine award in 1982. <br />
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Gene was clearly having a great weekend hanging out with James Wharram:<br />
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I signed a few of my own books as one of the speaking authors on Saturday afternoon, but for me the highlight of the evening was getting new copies of both The Wharram Design Book and Two Girls, Two Catamarans, and having them signed by James Wharram and Hanneke Boon. <br />
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Below is the rendezvous organizer, Islamorada resident, Dan Kunz, with Hanneke Boon and James Wharram:<br />
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I first met James and Hanneke the Thursday afternoon before the rendezvous, at David Halladay's new shop, where he hosted a grand opening party that evening. The most interesting project he has going at the moment is the construction of the first foam-core fiberglass composite Ariki 47, an improved version of the classic Ariki. James and Hanneke were inspecting the work and pointing out small nuances of the design that make their hulls so functional. <br />
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This Ariki is a big boat. Here David is showing James and Hanneke the galley mock-up. The owner will complete the boat after the Boatsmith crew gets it to a certain point. But I spoke with David earlier today and he told me they just started on the second Ariki they've contracted to build for another customer. He's certainly got the space to do it in the new shop. <br />
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<br />Scott B. Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10984429607322718345noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37487607.post-89765389495850470292012-05-13T20:42:00.000-05:002012-05-13T20:42:17.731-05:00More Cockpit DetailsMy focus for the past week has been on getting the structure of the cockpit finished so I can fit the seats/hatch covers for the storage compartments and finish the glassing and fairing of the interior of it. One important consideration in the cockpit is working out the boat's electrical system and providing for wiring between the two hulls and to the mast. The house batteries will be mounted in the starboard stern cockpit locker, adjacent the navigation station in the starboard hull, where there will be a 12-volt switch panel to control all circuits on board. To get the wiring from the cockpit into the hulls while still keeping the boat demountable, I'm using David Halladay's method of PVC pipe stubs glassed into the cockpit compartments and hull sides, with rubber inner tubes and hose clamps sealing out the water. More on those connections later. First, I had to work out getting the necessary circuits from the starboard side of the cockpit to the port side, as well as to the mast foot for those wires that have to go to the masthead. Here is the sawn 2-inch PVC pipe I'm using for that, glassed into the joint at the top of the slope on the forward end of the cockpit:<br />
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You can see the hole going into the port side cockpit compartment, and the cut-out at the bottom that will be the exit point for the masthead wiring. Here, I've held it in place with pressure from a couple of 2 x 4s clamped in place while the fillets dry:<br />
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All the PVC wire runs will be glassed over, faired into the adjacent surfaces and painted, but after gluing this one in, I had to move the cockpit to the boat to check some other dimensions.<br />
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The slot in the bottom of this wire run will be further protected from water entering by the addition of this compass housing I've built to mount my lighted steering compass. This compass was salvaged off the wreck of my destroyed monohull, <i>Intensity, </i>and somehow came through Hurricane Katrina unscathed. It will be a nice addition to <i>Element II:</i><br />
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While I had the cockpit in place hanging from the beams, I went ahead and made four teak locating/hold-down blocks for the four corners of the cockpit. You can't see them completely here, but each block is L-shaped, so that it not only locks down the cockpit to prevent it from lifting, but all locks the sides to prevent lateral movement:<br />
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The next step is building the coamings for the cockpit compartments and finishing the side deck pieces that span the gap between the cockpit sides and the hulls. Here you can see the starboard side deck in place:<br />
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These side deck pieces will be removable for installation of the cockpit when the boat is assembled. I've worked out a design for the compartment lids/seats, in which they will be permanently hinged to these side decks, reducing the weight of the cockpit for transportation and facilitating a faster assembly time. More on the details of this when I get them farther along:<br />
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Here's a overview of the cockpit with all these various additions. Looking forward:<br />
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And looking aft. Note also the two rails that span the gap between the aft beam and the net beam. A boarding ladder will swing down between these, and trampolines will fill in the gaps on either side:<br />
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Here's another view of those ladder rails from astern:<br />
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The cockpit is now back off the boat and I've finished fitting and gluing in the coamings for the hatches over the storage compartments:<br />
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Here are those side deck pieces again, temporarily clamped in place. They will fasten to the outer coamings like this in actual assembly, the outboard edges resting on the support rails glassed on the inboard cabin sides of the hulls:<br />
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<br />Scott B. Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10984429607322718345noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37487607.post-2928214619484762052012-05-13T16:57:00.000-05:002012-05-13T16:57:53.499-05:00Cockpit and Motor Mount Measurements and DetailsA reader and fellow Tiki 26 builder wrote the other day to request some measurements on my cockpit clearance above the waterline and the depth of the prop of the Nissan Extra-Long Shaft 6hp outboard. Because the cockpit is slightly deeper than the 9 inches shown on the plans, he was concerned about wave tops slamming the bottom, and also wanted to make sure the prop was deep enough to avoid cavitation in a chop. I had to reinstall the cockpit the other day to make some other measurements anyway, so I shot these photos showing the requested dimensions. I made up for the two-inch extra cockpit depth somewhat by making my beam mounting blocks on the deck thicker by almost that amount. I don't think clearance will be an issue, and with the extra-long 25-inch shaft, the motor can be mounted high in the cockpit to protect it, yet it will still reach deep enough so that it will almost touch bottom if the keels of the hulls do. This first shot shows the depth of the cockpit hanging below the aft crossbeam:<br />
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Here you can see can see the depth of the prop, again measured from the bottom of the aft crossbeam:<br />
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The bottom edge of this piece of 2 x 4 lumber is in line with the bottoms of the keels adjacent to the motor. As you can see, the prop can't hit bottom before the boat runs aground, as the deepest part of the keels are slightly forward anyway, in the midships portion of the hulls:<br />
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This last shot shows the 2 x 4 at the approximate average load waterline. The bottom paint is probably 3-inches above the true waterline to allow for heavy loading at the start of a voyage. As you can see, with the extra-long shaft, the prop is unlikely to come out of the water in anything but the worst conditions:<br />
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<br />Scott B. Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10984429607322718345noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37487607.post-79981413409675130012012-05-06T20:36:00.000-05:002012-05-06T20:36:52.184-05:00PaintingI'm in the process of painting various parts at the moment. Here are a few photos of the crossbeams. This first shot shows the aft beam and the additional net beam. You can see the holes that have been drilled in the trampoline rails for the two rear tramps. I've also worked out the details on the aft ladder and have just finished building and glassing the ladder support rails. The two small blocks you see near the center of each of these aft beams are chocks to lock these support rails in position.<br />
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The other beams have been pained as well. In addition to my own beams, in the shed next to the boat I have another complete set that I am glassing and fairing. I built these on contract for a friend who has a Tiki 26, along with new rudders. I'll post photos of those parts soon. <br />
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<br />Scott B. Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10984429607322718345noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37487607.post-3207748823887121742012-01-26T20:33:00.000-06:002012-01-26T20:33:48.998-06:00Test-fitting the Cockpit with Seat Box AdditionsI finished fiberglassing the exterior of the cockpit box yesterday, so it was rigid enough to move it back around to the boat today to hang it from the beams and check the fit. This was necessary to measure for the hatch coamings in the under-seat compartments and for the flanges on either side where the cockpit will mate to the hulls. <br />
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Even with the added seat boxes, the cockpit is not too heavy for me to handle single-handed. It is awkward because of its size and shape though: 8 feet long by 6 feet, 3 inches wide. I tipped it off the saw horses where I'd been working on it and moved it with a dolly to the backyard. There I was able to pull it over the grass to position it between the hulls and fit the forward edge to the mast beam:<br />
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I got it up to the lip on the mast beam by lifting it from the front with a rope and reaching over the beam with a ladder to pull it into place:<br />
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Then I lifted the stern end up high enough to put a small saw horse under it:<br />
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With it in this position, I could then set the rear beam in place, tilt the beam back while reaching over it with one hand to grab the top of the motor opening, and lift it up high enough to lock the beam back in place. I really like the way the cockpit is captured by the beam flanges. It's a simple and secure design. In this photo you can see the two 1.5-inch scupper holes I drilled in the aft end of the cockpit for drainage. <br />
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Here's a view from above showing the new compartments. There will be lots of storage space in these.</div>
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Looking forward, the board on the starboard side is just a scrap used to test the seating position. The gap between the cockpit edges and the hull sides is just a few inches. Today I came up with a simple and elegant solution to sealing this off in a way that will allow for dry storage compartments under the seats and no spray shooting up from the bottom when going to weather in rough conditions. I'll begin work on that tomorrow and will post when I have new photos.</div>
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<br />Scott B. Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10984429607322718345noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37487607.post-70658946727951274932012-01-24T08:27:00.000-06:002012-01-24T08:27:59.987-06:00Great Weather for JanuaryIt's been unseasonably warm here for this time of year, so I've been taking advantage of the good conditions to move forward with the cockpit sheathing and other epoxy work.<br />
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I completed the under-seat storage boxes that I added to the cockpit last week. All the interior joints have been filleted, a fairly big job with a surprising 56 linear feet of fillets to make, counting the vertical joints and both sides of the center dividing partitions. Those interior compartments will also get fiberglass sheathing, but first I wanted to flip the cockpit over and glass the exterior. This will allow me to safely move it around to the boat and hang it in place for a final measurement before continuing with the seats that will also serve as hatch covers for the compartments. <br />
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All exterior corners were first rounded over with a router and filling and fairing completed where necessary. As you can see, there is a small "chine" on each side of the bottom where the bottom panels of the side boxes overlap the main cockpit floor by one inch. I did this to for ease of assembly when adding the side compartments and for additional stiffness and strength. The overlap required a fairing fillet to allow the glass to transition smoothly from one surface to the next. I've also wrapped the end support ledgers on the forward and aft ends of the cockpit in glass, bonding them to the panels with a strip of glass cloth that transitions from the bottoms of these to the panels over a small fillet. The bottom of this cockpit is so big the sheathing has to be done in stages - at least for someone working alone. I'm using 6oz. glass cloth in a 50-inch width. <br />
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Here's a view from the aft end of the cockpit, and you can see I've also moved the forward deck into the carport to get it out of the weather so it can be completely sanded and then treated with an oil finish. The cypress deck has been exposed to heat and cold, sun and rain since I built it in October, so this allowed me to see how the wood was going to hold up and revealed a couple of bad planks that are wanting to check. I'll replace those, but everything else looks great. <br />
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Here is the finish that will be applied to the deck: Deks Olje D.1, as recommended by my friend David Halladay, of <a href="http://www.boatsmithfl.com/">Boatsmith</a>. This is a saturating oil that is applied in multiple coats until the wood cannot soak up any more. It will preserve the natural color of the cypress and help prevent checking and other problems, while still giving the footing advantages of a raw deck.<br />
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Other ongoing projects include finishing up the beams. Since I added the forward deck, I had to make and install lashing pads on the mast and forward beams to support the longitudinal stringers under the center of the deck, and these have to be glass sheathed, faired and painted. On the aft beam, I've added a ledger/rail on the aft side of the beam that will support the central boarding ladder and its rails and provide a place to drill lashing holes for the aft trampolines on either side of the ladder. The rail is teak so that holes can be drilled without worry about rot. The entire assembly is wrapped in glass and bonded to the beam fairing and bottom.<br />
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On the inboard sides of the hulls, I've glassed in 1-inch by 3/4-inch Doug fir stringers that will support the side flanges that will mate up to the cockpit edges at the level of the seats. There are many different possibilities when it comes to how to join the cockpit sides to the hulls. I had a long discussion with David about some ideas on this the other day. An issue is that in rough conditions or at speed, water comes up through any gap in this transition, so the gap needs to be minimal, but tolerances cannot be so close that assembly and disassembly becomes too difficult. Drainage for rain and spray running down the inboard sides of the cabins also has to be taken into consideration, especially if you intend the under seat lockers to be dry storage, as I do, rather than wet lockers with drains. I have some ideas I'm still working out on this transition and the design of the locker lids/seats. I'll make a final decision as soon as I can hang the cockpit back on the boat after I finish glassing the outside. Here's a view of one of the inboard stringers:<br />
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<br />Scott B. Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10984429607322718345noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37487607.post-6892707791872382812012-01-17T14:47:00.000-06:002012-01-17T14:47:37.825-06:00Cockpit Under-seat Storage CompartmentsI made a trip to New Orleans last week to pick up what should finally be the last two sheets of Joubert marine plywood to finish my boat: one sheet of 6mm to get out the bottom and side panels for the under-seat storage compartments and one sheet of 12mm to make the lids for these. This lids will also be the seats and must be stiff enough to walk on and not warp or break - hence the 12mm for this purpose. I went with the 6mm for the sides and bottoms of the boxes rather than foam core like the main cockpit floor or 9mm like the cockpit sides, since these will not be stepped in or carry excessive weight. <br />
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I debated long and hard about whether or not to add these fixed seat boxes to the central cockpit structure or build them as separate components to make transporting them easier. In the end, I decided to make it all one unit as it will be stronger and easier to maintain overall, as separate boxes on either side of the cockpit would would require an extra wall of plywood and would create contact spots that would probably lead to maintenance problems in the future. <br />
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I began by glueing the bottom panels of the compartments to either side of the existing cockpit floor, then turning the whole assembly over and making the panels for the bow and stern ends, as well as a middle bulkhead that is cut-away to allow storage of long items like boat hooks and oars. This assembly went together really fast since I used the super glue and accelerator I've mentioned here before to tab these parts in place rather than the more time-consuming stitch-and-glue technique.<br />
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Once the bulkheads and end panels were in place, I then attached the outside panels. The completed boxes are 12 inches wide. At this stage, I was able to begin making the structural fillets that would hold all this together and allow a smooth transition from bottom panels to sides for laying down fiberglass. The glassing will be done after the fillets are completed. The outside corners will also get a radius to allow glass sheathing over them. In this photo you can see that I have temporary blocks of wood screwed to the central portion of the cockpit to allow it to hang between the mast and aft beams. This was to check alignment as pictured in my last post so I could make and install stringers for the inboard cabin sides where the seats will bridge from the cockpit to the hulls. <br />
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In this photo, the temporary end stringers have been removed and the permanent ones glued in place with epoxy. These will also be glassed into the rest of the structure for strength. After this has cured, I will hang the cockpit on the boat again for another alignment check and to measure for the seats/covers that will enclose these compartments. <br />
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The seats will be split into four separate covers - two on each side. To keep these compartments dry in rain or spray, the seats will have one-inch side lips all around that will fit over raised coamings I'm going to build into the openings of the compartments. They will hinge from the inside of the cockpit and overlap a flange permanently attached to each cabin side where it meets the cockpit. More photos to come in the days ahead will make this clearer. It's more work to make these cockpit seat boxes watertight, but it will be worth it to have the option of sealing them. They will also be fitted with drain holes and removable plugs.Scott B. Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10984429607322718345noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37487607.post-32304836620543963072011-10-30T17:33:00.000-05:002011-10-30T17:33:38.043-05:00Test Fitting the CockpitAfter finishing the forward decks, I completed the basic assembly of the cockpit box and temporarily fitted some stringers on the ends so I could hang it from the beams and check the alignment and fit of everything.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmKAAriJkGYkrFgNuLYwOHWoFTTsxUZSG2ALNgpbRwDv_wXqH5YuZRK9NIoVDxBM3fhG5ggrzYrDb9qvZpywnOLMB2gS67RPFPGCTb9taDyBmMB7RhR3-mRutWzqCWitFt8cxh/s1600/SBW_3451.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmKAAriJkGYkrFgNuLYwOHWoFTTsxUZSG2ALNgpbRwDv_wXqH5YuZRK9NIoVDxBM3fhG5ggrzYrDb9qvZpywnOLMB2gS67RPFPGCTb9taDyBmMB7RhR3-mRutWzqCWitFt8cxh/s400/SBW_3451.JPG" width="400" /> </a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">This is just the basic center section of the cockpit, built to plans with a foam-sandwich floor. This floor is lightweight and incredibly stiff, with no signs of flexing when walked on. Hanging it in place allowed me to scribe an accurate line on the inboard sides of the cabins, for the placement of the rails that will support the outboard edges of the seats. There is clearance on either side of the 4-foot wide cockpit box to accommodate a 12-inch wide under seat storage box on each side. These will be dry storage areas closed by the hinged seats, and will provide a place for the batteries and other essential gear. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The extra-long-shaft Nissan outboard sits high and dry in the cockpit well, where it will be well-protected and easily accessible.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The 25-inch shaft length makes it possible to mount it this high and still have the prop deep enough to minimize cavitation in choppy conditions. You can see here that it will be well under water, yet not deep enough to strike the bottom before the hulls do:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
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</div>After making sure this fit was good, I then cut out the opening in the aft end of the cockpit that allows the motor to be tilted clear of the water when it is not needed, which hopefully, will be most of the time.<br />
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</div>Now the cockpit is back in the shed on saw horses for all the finish work on the fillets and glassing, as well as construction of the seat boxes. Like every other part of this project, the assembly of the parts is a small percentage of the real work that has to be done before the parts are finished and painted. Scott B. Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10984429607322718345noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37487607.post-76123946437840029742011-10-24T21:06:00.000-05:002011-10-24T21:06:09.844-05:00Building the Forward DecksIt's been awhile since my last post here, and a lot has happened in the meantime. Most significantly, I lost my father two months ago and have been adapting to life without him - a man who was truly my greatest teacher and certainly one of my best friends. I was fortunate to have lots of time with him right up through his last years, but being so close makes losing him harder still. <br />
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Besides that life-changing event, I've had a <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1569759790/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=scottsboatpag-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=1569759790">new book</a> released this month, and I'm right in the middle of writing the next one and about to sign a contract for the one after that. The current project I'm working on is a novel, and it will prominently feature a Wharram catamaran in the story line. More on that later. I've also been working on the Tiki 26 parts mentioned in my last post that I contracted to build for another owner. These are coming along nicely and the remaining work to be done on the beams, rudders and mast is mainly fiberglassing and fairing. I'll post some photos of that project soon as well, but for now I wanted to focus on the slatted forward deck, as I have been asked how I was going to build it<br />
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Working with the cypress and assembling the decks<i> </i>has been a pleasant job over the last few days, as it has involved little epoxy work and no fiberglassing or fairing. I've documented the process with photos that show the various stages of construction from layout and design to trimming and sanding. <br />
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First, I laminated four athwart-ship deckbeams from the the same cypress stock the planking was milled from. The deck beams consist of two 2 1/2-inch by 1-inch thick planks laminated together to form 2 1/2-inch by 2-inch beams set on edge. These four beams are not strong enough alone to support the deck, since the span is as wide as 8 feet between the hulls at the forward end of the deck. To prevent them from sagging or breaking in the middle, I also made two fore-and-aft beams of the same dimensions, lag-bolted to the bottoms of the four main beams and hung from under the forward and main crossbeams by lashing cleats. Here you can see the rough framework clamped into place for alignment and measurement, the two fore-and-aft beams are the middle two. The extra two near the hulls on each side are temporary for alignment only. <br />
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Next, I made and installed cleats of 18-mm plywood to support the fore-and-aft beams - two on the aft side of the forward crossbeam, and two on the fairing side of the mast beam. Now that the location of these has been determined, I can glass-sheath the cleats, and finish fairing and painting these two beams. <br />
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After temporarily securing the beams to the cleats so the structure would support my weight, I began working out the plank widths and spacing. I wanted most of the planks to be 2 1/2-inches wide, as planking much wider than that is subject to cupping, warping or splitting as it cycles through extremes of wet and dry and hot and cold. After deciding on a gap of 3/4-inch between all planks, I then made the port and starboard margin planks and two middle planks that are in line with the lashing cleats. The forward ends of the margin planks, of course, have to be quite a bit wider than the standard 2 1/2-inch plank width, as the outer edge is cut to follow the curvature of the hull as it tapers into the bow. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqaJ9g0zx70tl431eATf3ILt_on3OxOihplhmt2QhsK-7oQ0FzM3RCgchkfugJdt5Aqw63ZaoqREKWQbuumyVVfWku-vB5vE2S_uVeXDSwkMPReQYNyIIA0CtRHlls-KX_Bvvt/s1600/SBW_3405.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqaJ9g0zx70tl431eATf3ILt_on3OxOihplhmt2QhsK-7oQ0FzM3RCgchkfugJdt5Aqw63ZaoqREKWQbuumyVVfWku-vB5vE2S_uVeXDSwkMPReQYNyIIA0CtRHlls-KX_Bvvt/s400/SBW_3405.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br />
Once these four planks were secured to the beams with counter-sunk screws, the entire structure was then rigid enough to remove without getting it out of square. Here you can see it upside-down on the sawhorses. The longitudinal beams have been shaped and rounded over with the router on the bottom. The clamps you can see on the ends of the deck beams are for gluing on fitted spacers under the ends of each beam where it rests on the toe rail. Each spacer is different because of the curvature of the sheer line. The idea is to distribute the weight evenly across all eight contact points and four beam lashing points. The result is a very rigid deck that shows no sign of flexing when I jump up and down on it. I was trying to achieve this with the minimum amount of framing, in order to save as much weigh as possible.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLBMXbHW1PdQjoIBl03w45rQSAGjt89G2FHLHIYou_lgR0wKDxvgPN2e-20ImsgM4jmaN1-kyTAPjh9DXxvN8DZlDSn0HON2fKtIIBD0o_1l9wZCxa368Jbge-OwD-C7eZWw_o/s1600/SBW_3409.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLBMXbHW1PdQjoIBl03w45rQSAGjt89G2FHLHIYou_lgR0wKDxvgPN2e-20ImsgM4jmaN1-kyTAPjh9DXxvN8DZlDSn0HON2fKtIIBD0o_1l9wZCxa368Jbge-OwD-C7eZWw_o/s400/SBW_3409.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br />
With the finished framework back in position, I then cut and installed all the remaining planking, using spacers made of little blocks of 3/4-inch plywood to maintain a consistent gap. This spacing is close enough to keep most items on board, but wide enough to allow water to quickly drain off in rough conditions. <br />
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The finished planking, with two counter-sunk screws per plank to beam joint, for a total of 8 screws per plank. Now I had to make 210 cypress plugs to fill all those screw holes.<br />
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This went fairly quickly with a 1/2-inch plug cutter chucked in a drill. I had plenty of scrap cypress to get them out of.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuBRZNtUoIL9vPTZU8-MnfU49rcM8vZJgwPg2Y38lLNNHNuxmoaVmY-5zZPaeFWkaKtBIh6mpqETlSqOzo5mFXnRlPN8CDl4divuyN1mQlX9X0xm1j7JWDrlELv0sJRmzXcy4g/s1600/SBW_3425.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuBRZNtUoIL9vPTZU8-MnfU49rcM8vZJgwPg2Y38lLNNHNuxmoaVmY-5zZPaeFWkaKtBIh6mpqETlSqOzo5mFXnRlPN8CDl4divuyN1mQlX9X0xm1j7JWDrlELv0sJRmzXcy4g/s400/SBW_3425.JPG" width="265" /></a></div><br />
Here, the plugs are all in, dipped in epoxy and tapped in tightly with a hammer:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg_jVJOx9QD3KjBQY4cWjdbUmKzSqoh-msq4VFsfj1NEz002C2S7iMqrfVtQB9IsbMXCqXLlO3kzsdIn7CCt7ZsiZdAHq8ueyCT8tDx_F6BRGu2RSJcoPqCjC_LwG1id3xDps8/s1600/SBW_3433.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg_jVJOx9QD3KjBQY4cWjdbUmKzSqoh-msq4VFsfj1NEz002C2S7iMqrfVtQB9IsbMXCqXLlO3kzsdIn7CCt7ZsiZdAHq8ueyCT8tDx_F6BRGu2RSJcoPqCjC_LwG1id3xDps8/s400/SBW_3433.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br />
After the epoxy cured, I cut them flush with a sharp chisel and then did a quick, preliminary sanding to see how it was going to look. More detailed sanding will be done later. I think this deck is going to greatly enhance the livability of the Tiki 26 by providing a secure working area to handle ground tackle and sails and more uncluttered deck space at anchor. There is a weight penalty as opposed to a trampoline, but it's not that significant because of where it's located, as most Tikis need some weight forward of the cockpit to trim out properly. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwYMUef1qARAnmpD2PYZT3WIlM4DegEC0Bo2BfpzA2t6UZuKSsSv6h7oCILoAG9msCyGU8ZtM8f9OWkcW2-ydpOlJUOtPYMLyTiGm_cPMacgmsHE_VhCXXA0ePAkEvgb97N4dF/s1600/SBW_3448.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwYMUef1qARAnmpD2PYZT3WIlM4DegEC0Bo2BfpzA2t6UZuKSsSv6h7oCILoAG9msCyGU8ZtM8f9OWkcW2-ydpOlJUOtPYMLyTiGm_cPMacgmsHE_VhCXXA0ePAkEvgb97N4dF/s400/SBW_3448.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK4lJ24GgsOE9f-hM6kLymTCjDJTsYqn4RzU5Qa3y3inAIPyEV8H8sLeeeD73l6YQAXwQ2qbkFyW0fAdEP3ZHNkSNbkMWVrZfMOGQciIdckiun7gMDDj7qcgPuQZpw7v_Ad7il/s1600/SBW_3446.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="272" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK4lJ24GgsOE9f-hM6kLymTCjDJTsYqn4RzU5Qa3y3inAIPyEV8H8sLeeeD73l6YQAXwQ2qbkFyW0fAdEP3ZHNkSNbkMWVrZfMOGQciIdckiun7gMDDj7qcgPuQZpw7v_Ad7il/s400/SBW_3446.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br />
Here's some different perspectives of the deck:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXclMiXyXDspOu91a55Zd_FEx3tFtIvDWdNfDBTTSy5RBAfTgDT9nNDQZkr1ANaNb0J3_UF8azfAIxCaPLv0ASpHemqezuNA5XqlT8wpZGA0Z0GOvEj0TO7eWzPihLf2nPma5P/s1600/SBW_3428.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXclMiXyXDspOu91a55Zd_FEx3tFtIvDWdNfDBTTSy5RBAfTgDT9nNDQZkr1ANaNb0J3_UF8azfAIxCaPLv0ASpHemqezuNA5XqlT8wpZGA0Z0GOvEj0TO7eWzPihLf2nPma5P/s400/SBW_3428.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAJ8JPO2u0txB1TKBBlC8LZzlt5yCq7a4Lz6hGjnyIjgGLAbdYTpfj6XIrKApMZ0bfKH6IxVjeoaOZKlkIi4NuVfYaa6x4fb59NdMjkxRBdn9PEBWIfP19RUu4ADe1dROlqrhu/s1600/SBW_3438.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAJ8JPO2u0txB1TKBBlC8LZzlt5yCq7a4Lz6hGjnyIjgGLAbdYTpfj6XIrKApMZ0bfKH6IxVjeoaOZKlkIi4NuVfYaa6x4fb59NdMjkxRBdn9PEBWIfP19RUu4ADe1dROlqrhu/s400/SBW_3438.JPG" width="400" /> </a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Note that with this design, the deck beams are carried nearly as high as the bottoms of the main crossbeams. The only parts lower are the two fore-and-aft beams. This will minimize taking wave tops off with the deck beams, though I'm sure that beating into rough seas will be wet. But it would be wet with a trampoline too. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyuYwiEwEtmCDbYvRyw9PYrSI3xC2koFcf2vFbFAb28rZ9FV7fcb08ZJXkrgwkhYyetJ_1VCCSfNcpmM7B_px8ktOnwJgL2Gp9pkvrTUkqeGOXyxT7hU9XhjPzTOgkKoRtlpZJ/s1600/SBW_3440.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyuYwiEwEtmCDbYvRyw9PYrSI3xC2koFcf2vFbFAb28rZ9FV7fcb08ZJXkrgwkhYyetJ_1VCCSfNcpmM7B_px8ktOnwJgL2Gp9pkvrTUkqeGOXyxT7hU9XhjPzTOgkKoRtlpZJ/s400/SBW_3440.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div>Scott B. Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10984429607322718345noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37487607.post-88557786527716717532011-08-11T20:18:00.000-05:002011-08-11T20:18:21.394-05:00Planing Deck Lumber and Building Parts for Another Tiki 26I spent the afternoon surfacing all the cypress lumber that will be used for the slatted forward deck and aft boarding ladder. This is something I planned to do a long time ago, but just got around to it. It was a big job with my little 13-inch bench-top planer:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKNlpYSKRWteFZ3rAEe4jOLMSR6u9V9yGN0TtgWsYs1jSssZIf6aFkrMuTYpJPHn7rYwAq_Ico2MW9CVgKwxXH-n9g97zsYINWTiki3MztsfQhEuCIp7mijzPBlfu4L6vJxsm1/s1600/SBW_3135.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKNlpYSKRWteFZ3rAEe4jOLMSR6u9V9yGN0TtgWsYs1jSssZIf6aFkrMuTYpJPHn7rYwAq_Ico2MW9CVgKwxXH-n9g97zsYINWTiki3MztsfQhEuCIp7mijzPBlfu4L6vJxsm1/s400/SBW_3135.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br />
It's getting hard to find clear cypress like these select planks that are 8 and 12 feet long. Even this stuff has a few knots and splits, so I bought and processed more than I think I'll need to get all the support rails and deck planks out.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE7X87PJ_wU0fU81X3B0vxPLHSwwZ62leKYvE-0SBSvW65ljV9hqWmydTJnbuduOJMGb9k0n__hMc4buExSMwaGCseeCnz9FKOGrIt3v7t53WOfdEb9E7IaE2H3MhjFwumm44E/s1600/SBW_3127.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="311" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE7X87PJ_wU0fU81X3B0vxPLHSwwZ62leKYvE-0SBSvW65ljV9hqWmydTJnbuduOJMGb9k0n__hMc4buExSMwaGCseeCnz9FKOGrIt3v7t53WOfdEb9E7IaE2H3MhjFwumm44E/s400/SBW_3127.JPG" width="400" /> </a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Good cypress like this is not cheap, but it's a whole lot less than teak, and while it might not look quite as good or last as long, it's also much lighter weight than teak and I think it will certainly make for a nice deck.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> The other thing I've got going on out in the boat shed is a paying job building Tiki 26 parts. These are for a friend who is refitting his Tiki 26 in preparation for extensive cruising. I've contracted to build two new rudders, the mast and the three connecting beams. Yeah, I know I said before that building these Tiki 26 style beams is a major pain because of the difficulty of glassing them, but here I go again - building another set exactly to plan. Here are all the center webs:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigukAQif7yI_r7nL4cO7CBD48ZZZwzmhMiEFYBm2lP4w4MAPCJ1FJi4FSGaLKEz7c4jDHPeBJcGnvOiOV4DplC-z8eAWVKxQINbz7Xvh6NbH7Lxikb3LJ4BirApKTI52b7bu-Y/s1600/SBW_3038.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigukAQif7yI_r7nL4cO7CBD48ZZZwzmhMiEFYBm2lP4w4MAPCJ1FJi4FSGaLKEz7c4jDHPeBJcGnvOiOV4DplC-z8eAWVKxQINbz7Xvh6NbH7Lxikb3LJ4BirApKTI52b7bu-Y/s400/SBW_3038.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div>The cutting and assembly of these goes fairly fast. It's all the filleting, glassing, fairing and sanding that seems to take forever - just like everything else on these boats. In a couple more days, I'll have all the basic assemblies done:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNNy7uL61_lCIer660DYUjoeuWsk6ZYneeITTfQs9zriRIPYyJukolxcvGwArG0969tTLZGj59F_RTwZzFByjnkNQ_v4dNQICgSceIF538OvFnbKy5ROepx4MO4oDI1dV9Uoun/s1600/SBW_3130.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNNy7uL61_lCIer660DYUjoeuWsk6ZYneeITTfQs9zriRIPYyJukolxcvGwArG0969tTLZGj59F_RTwZzFByjnkNQ_v4dNQICgSceIF538OvFnbKy5ROepx4MO4oDI1dV9Uoun/s400/SBW_3130.JPG" width="400" /> </a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Here you can see I've cut the rudders out of a sheet of 18mm Joubert ply. Since I still have not hung my own rudders, also shown, I was able to use one of them as a pattern. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM9Zxel3ad-vZwkdmxPXN3EGnsV5GwSXVlgoAQZfDMZB8ecirIAgM02TdmpVPuu06-46RLoPbeFh3hOjhOBs-mCXxu-07qVcOVKDGoKXK8nk_gJMZKLzwapHHSOaXoWzZChwl8/s1600/SBW_3034.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM9Zxel3ad-vZwkdmxPXN3EGnsV5GwSXVlgoAQZfDMZB8ecirIAgM02TdmpVPuu06-46RLoPbeFh3hOjhOBs-mCXxu-07qVcOVKDGoKXK8nk_gJMZKLzwapHHSOaXoWzZChwl8/s400/SBW_3034.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div> This job will of course cut into my building time, but will also add funds to my project. It's a welcome change of course, from all the book writing I've been doing. I just finished up the final revisions for my latest book that will be released in October, but I have a deadline for the next one looming in less then 6 months. My plan is to work on my own boat alongside the construction of these parts, and hopefully complete the cockpit and decks and get the mast stepped during that time period. <br />
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Scott B. Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10984429607322718345noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37487607.post-30499831007156260512011-05-01T20:47:00.000-05:002011-05-01T20:47:38.927-05:00Beam Sheathing is FinishedAt last tedious work of wrapping all the beam parts in fiberglass is finished. I'm now in the process of fairing and priming them:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyt-5b-eayYWHictWAy1CmamLObri8yg2tmnUFR_pVbP1tN9Ro7IYlKPuMLp9CX5QX-VuJjU4GLotyNLoMLi8N7E6qUcqt39kdODKD7Y8OVXFYdBTP74mUCtpwtVBFMXXpB9rS/s1600/SBW_2129.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyt-5b-eayYWHictWAy1CmamLObri8yg2tmnUFR_pVbP1tN9Ro7IYlKPuMLp9CX5QX-VuJjU4GLotyNLoMLi8N7E6qUcqt39kdODKD7Y8OVXFYdBTP74mUCtpwtVBFMXXpB9rS/s400/SBW_2129.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>Here are a few photos showing some of the steps in sheathing the webs, top plates and front fairings:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_xIHnhBpvvXdIbJ2yy0YJq23xf5NTGlsrBd5fk_97luQPwaF6coNR73RZonxLCBcUBA9n8qZe2EqXckUnQEskiQQx9o7h_6d_TdyQgiSG_s8cV3vMZ6-niH-HF43BD6M6VWkH/s1600/SBW_2079.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_xIHnhBpvvXdIbJ2yy0YJq23xf5NTGlsrBd5fk_97luQPwaF6coNR73RZonxLCBcUBA9n8qZe2EqXckUnQEskiQQx9o7h_6d_TdyQgiSG_s8cV3vMZ6-niH-HF43BD6M6VWkH/s400/SBW_2079.JPG" width="265" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglB7WIPnEZAl34p8_HPA3b_4PLunyMYzUJVP0my4OVz6r_zCd-AGlMpeAluIHTLQwpVAGavplqc9tLVqpZs6T6XDSJ4dwsqCtqbDTJLtujmGD4wUdi-ALGuYGadHp5PYDpgZRu/s1600/SBW_2080.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglB7WIPnEZAl34p8_HPA3b_4PLunyMYzUJVP0my4OVz6r_zCd-AGlMpeAluIHTLQwpVAGavplqc9tLVqpZs6T6XDSJ4dwsqCtqbDTJLtujmGD4wUdi-ALGuYGadHp5PYDpgZRu/s400/SBW_2080.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUxpv8bmSlqywjnzqe92-YaRV8h09Y4a4b8_UzMlK9hqeSb8V8TWbFi1Jl7kMaiHK1zuj-Wg4sbYowQFKF2WbETjD0QOP8yMe1N4vMohYMSUTZCC9MSgNMQSzdOKjNIqek-PES/s1600/SBW_2091.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUxpv8bmSlqywjnzqe92-YaRV8h09Y4a4b8_UzMlK9hqeSb8V8TWbFi1Jl7kMaiHK1zuj-Wg4sbYowQFKF2WbETjD0QOP8yMe1N4vMohYMSUTZCC9MSgNMQSzdOKjNIqek-PES/s400/SBW_2091.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXVHjOv9-12LXM41KSmuKr3ZYupf2S2sZtattcl9Gv0u4a67guJ7pYDDwTGn2Vp-cWyEuJcnxJa80VUgjw8pN47t4SBobN3vinb7ar4zhxxMNfcEFlm3FQBoaps6EWOqMs9s38/s1600/SBW_2093.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXVHjOv9-12LXM41KSmuKr3ZYupf2S2sZtattcl9Gv0u4a67guJ7pYDDwTGn2Vp-cWyEuJcnxJa80VUgjw8pN47t4SBobN3vinb7ar4zhxxMNfcEFlm3FQBoaps6EWOqMs9s38/s400/SBW_2093.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>This photo shows the front beam to the left, with the custom anchor roller brackets I made, and the aft beam to the right. In the middle is the much smaller aft netting beam. The mast beam is holding the hulls together, so I have to swap them around and work on two at a time while one is on the boat.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM-VuedfPOwTG9bZDlZ07JNwIKuvF4Z4t2Rn3k1B1ER9al2AVLK8uLMDC0_8dDQw-afZ4tKZi_2PIPACm7cwYbDG89kiMCVLOHohPHkrG6_wndW_rW2yK757Yu_NAmA6uxjecb/s1600/SBW_2096.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM-VuedfPOwTG9bZDlZ07JNwIKuvF4Z4t2Rn3k1B1ER9al2AVLK8uLMDC0_8dDQw-afZ4tKZi_2PIPACm7cwYbDG89kiMCVLOHohPHkrG6_wndW_rW2yK757Yu_NAmA6uxjecb/s400/SBW_2096.JPG" width="265" /></a></div>Fairing all these surfaces is multi-step process of sanding and applying epoxy fairing compound.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxM3ZMjK5bh9IxFTUuVNgLbex6VO1OXy7Eeo21HJAA-3SfV4K8HBMWSV-HX7YwaYmy6kjy0r3891RUVUTpKJWtW5zudXytnYj-lRNmvbdWUfac_klSZDL9s6xEojXsubwCZEIH/s1600/SBW_2109.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxM3ZMjK5bh9IxFTUuVNgLbex6VO1OXy7Eeo21HJAA-3SfV4K8HBMWSV-HX7YwaYmy6kjy0r3891RUVUTpKJWtW5zudXytnYj-lRNmvbdWUfac_klSZDL9s6xEojXsubwCZEIH/s400/SBW_2109.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>At this point in the build, I've come to rely on these tools for just about all filleting and fairing: They are all flexible blade drywall/putty knives of various sizes. The round ended ones like the one shown here are made by shaping these cheap blades with a belt sander. After using cardboard, wood, plastic and other filleting tools, I've discovered these work best and make the neatest fillets. Best of all, they can be used indefinitely if you either wipe them clean when the epoxy is still uncured or sand it off afterward.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFrFOZlZ52UYxFrbcLE2sQOh5zrwNJh1FrkmTuuuZXhCtkj_cWPeWPnZJ_AZvx1jkn_4HAMMyJfuzmpiTGOpO9wzah6EHW1C2sW69FAzEvXR3_DxHkigk8QR8iuogvGtnW-x5N/s1600/SBW_2111.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFrFOZlZ52UYxFrbcLE2sQOh5zrwNJh1FrkmTuuuZXhCtkj_cWPeWPnZJ_AZvx1jkn_4HAMMyJfuzmpiTGOpO9wzah6EHW1C2sW69FAzEvXR3_DxHkigk8QR8iuogvGtnW-x5N/s400/SBW_2111.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>Right now, the partially-assembled cockpit box is serving as a work table and catch-all space for tools and supplies: <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy7pawbWEcpeDdaBO-0xp5Wh7aUA41KkRB_L6KYQH7_c9zbng2LrfF_xKNMIgfJG_2iPIjiMiwO1fzoEcFlwRQMuSzsYgzAmsAfAFilDBwo1-Uy3E1wIGRVti0SMZyhsH2oWp6/s1600/SBW_2102.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy7pawbWEcpeDdaBO-0xp5Wh7aUA41KkRB_L6KYQH7_c9zbng2LrfF_xKNMIgfJG_2iPIjiMiwO1fzoEcFlwRQMuSzsYgzAmsAfAFilDBwo1-Uy3E1wIGRVti0SMZyhsH2oWp6/s400/SBW_2102.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>Here's a couple of shots of the aft netting beam, which still looks rough because it needs a lot of sanding:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg2ftJilEzTIpDZCLtkijg3ErxPedLcbRlUt7m-NBbpWWFeIqMVXyTQki5gmTaxjCADBFBx3pWzAG8AZF1xGD-K6_dygOk-yHkuYytGC9CBBevZMjzkYoA6fUA2zigcVH6kcSs/s1600/SBW_2134.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg2ftJilEzTIpDZCLtkijg3ErxPedLcbRlUt7m-NBbpWWFeIqMVXyTQki5gmTaxjCADBFBx3pWzAG8AZF1xGD-K6_dygOk-yHkuYytGC9CBBevZMjzkYoA6fUA2zigcVH6kcSs/s400/SBW_2134.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>I've added lashing cleats to the inboard sides of the hulls at the sheer stringer. Since it is not part of the structure holding the hulls together, this beam will only get lashed on the inboard side.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNk6UAnOMZem8aGKRdQKh_MOVjHJxG3_m68MICAnsqdL1Rdhl4ef1_3qz7RrQhVhg6Yh-r_NHZGsQqFz9JBSk4x-_DB0-JyX__-fUdjRuzvqkaGNliG7pwrcZ25MaAzCQbVa2-/s1600/SBW_2131.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNk6UAnOMZem8aGKRdQKh_MOVjHJxG3_m68MICAnsqdL1Rdhl4ef1_3qz7RrQhVhg6Yh-r_NHZGsQqFz9JBSk4x-_DB0-JyX__-fUdjRuzvqkaGNliG7pwrcZ25MaAzCQbVa2-/s400/SBW_2131.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>Scott B. Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10984429607322718345noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37487607.post-28930686265967613772011-04-12T20:38:00.000-05:002011-04-12T20:38:27.043-05:00Some Overdue PhotosI meant to post this months ago - a neat photo of the assembled boat that my sister took with her cell phone camera. I like the way this turned out:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf-3L2xwZ6ejWNS-UKjXDpI3o9zMjTWgcoz47knTQi1GOdao9pQbz6IKuomuS4dC2VRYWjqH0CaETQNSwshLIYFA6Z19Ik_u8pS9aD0R2qUVQtt4hqFcyH808zoiJxQJgZg8Cx/s1600/1016101631-00.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf-3L2xwZ6ejWNS-UKjXDpI3o9zMjTWgcoz47knTQi1GOdao9pQbz6IKuomuS4dC2VRYWjqH0CaETQNSwshLIYFA6Z19Ik_u8pS9aD0R2qUVQtt4hqFcyH808zoiJxQJgZg8Cx/s400/1016101631-00.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
Despite the lack of posting here, some progress is still being made. Lately this has been work on the three main beams and the aft net beam. I've had fiberglass sheathing and fairing to do on all of these, as well as building added parts that go on them like the mast step. Looking back at my last post that included photos, I realized too that I never got around to posting cockpit pictures. I did get the foam sandwich floor for the cockpit laminated last fall, and most of the basic box is built. I have yet to build the under seat storage boxes and complete the motor mount. I need to take more photos of the assembled cockpit, but here are some showing the beginning of laminating the foam core to the plywood skins:<br />
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First, I glued solid wood spacers around the perimeter and the motor well cutout. Solid blocks were glued into the corners where scuppers will later be drilled. All these wood parts are made of cypress.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNhaSdNE-9vhoeLxS0UoFv9tzh8ciNLcTYWBDTmJd-3TdZcJen7o-cBYCCGp-EfGFwHPhVF8Y3Ugkv8E6vbm7z3iawe1xr4M8UGltK69ksHttxxC_iT9EnrKVvsMfhEWWM9uWG/s1600/SBW_2544.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNhaSdNE-9vhoeLxS0UoFv9tzh8ciNLcTYWBDTmJd-3TdZcJen7o-cBYCCGp-EfGFwHPhVF8Y3Ugkv8E6vbm7z3iawe1xr4M8UGltK69ksHttxxC_iT9EnrKVvsMfhEWWM9uWG/s400/SBW_2544.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3mEcJpv68JEcoKqVlyVUl5DPXXnRYgW5lrIUWDdFBRVlgyjjmzKoCSKimJ2bOeV1KsePpNiISwLKAZKAuwh-OB3HrIR6jieJVxfeg9OvCmKyxl0PjZQSMnHyN1TEEFF9nAuFv/s1600/SBW_2545.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3mEcJpv68JEcoKqVlyVUl5DPXXnRYgW5lrIUWDdFBRVlgyjjmzKoCSKimJ2bOeV1KsePpNiISwLKAZKAuwh-OB3HrIR6jieJVxfeg9OvCmKyxl0PjZQSMnHyN1TEEFF9nAuFv/s400/SBW_2545.JPG" width="400" /> </a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Then, the 3/4" Divinycell foam was cut to fit within the borders, and plenty of holes were drilled in it to allow excess air to escape during the lamination process. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLUAe9_qGu3SEV_UK3KfEuRfRPDS4MjaB8vwj6mEZPnZHKmz8SPdb9oDddKoyA-xabmzUrFSA42tuw8nLrMB1muxZ56S0aZHINOlWI3cM71suz9QrJXdens44sLJ9k0U7ck4gE/s1600/SBW_2548.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLUAe9_qGu3SEV_UK3KfEuRfRPDS4MjaB8vwj6mEZPnZHKmz8SPdb9oDddKoyA-xabmzUrFSA42tuw8nLrMB1muxZ56S0aZHINOlWI3cM71suz9QrJXdens44sLJ9k0U7ck4gE/s400/SBW_2548.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> </div><br />
I used everything heavy I could find for weights to hold it in place while the epoxy cured. It takes a lot of evenly spaced weights to insure that the air is squeezed out and the foam is in good contact with the plywood gluing surface.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSwVKRrz6uF2w6Jsle-NxSoSdX3zXeQBpt8OwIl55wreYKlk3Yn9M8Fy52Dj-gIZNA76S6eJ9LX3tIsgHHYOb9z3HnVMTZd-_gLYw-Js6GYJ60o1ZD0c3l9hH2NDz8Y-YsY-wq/s1600/SBW_2550.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSwVKRrz6uF2w6Jsle-NxSoSdX3zXeQBpt8OwIl55wreYKlk3Yn9M8Fy52Dj-gIZNA76S6eJ9LX3tIsgHHYOb9z3HnVMTZd-_gLYw-Js6GYJ60o1ZD0c3l9hH2NDz8Y-YsY-wq/s400/SBW_2550.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br />
The top layer of 4mm plywood was then glued on after this cured. I didn't get photos of that though. Other work I've been doing lately is all the tedious glassing of beam surfaces and the add-ons like the anchor roller on the forward beam, shown here with unsanded fairing compound:<br />
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</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2naeB8wu4w_Rn92DAtz6W7Y3oh5DjMUxFKCaYaY5Bt3BRbpQkdAngLqu0hSFOftLYkkjXsI7CDgEE1dTeTgR3lcT3xgDBcvsjzYZkCXXusdZ9Ezjx7BDsqlMg-al0KlVbt_Wn/s1600/SBW_2067.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2naeB8wu4w_Rn92DAtz6W7Y3oh5DjMUxFKCaYaY5Bt3BRbpQkdAngLqu0hSFOftLYkkjXsI7CDgEE1dTeTgR3lcT3xgDBcvsjzYZkCXXusdZ9Ezjx7BDsqlMg-al0KlVbt_Wn/s400/SBW_2067.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br />
Here's a shot of the teak mast step, almost complete except for some final shaping and reinforcing fillets. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt6sXY1RTsqPziP2wBxsc2IGzmWarrrjTEIC1DvSFOOmzAKMuh2V8CSsOCQsDAMsp6nwNCZFyKCl8da5avqZejk14yZHvpPLxLg6li0wgltrN51c1eaTQmZ0iX2Y4kjI-9CzhT/s1600/SBW_2074.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt6sXY1RTsqPziP2wBxsc2IGzmWarrrjTEIC1DvSFOOmzAKMuh2V8CSsOCQsDAMsp6nwNCZFyKCl8da5avqZejk14yZHvpPLxLg6li0wgltrN51c1eaTQmZ0iX2Y4kjI-9CzhT/s400/SBW_2074.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br />
These old style Tiki 26 beams take forever to sheath in fiberglass because of all the unnecessary exposed surfaces. I would advise anyone building a new Tiki 26 to incorporate the newer Tiki 30 beam design, in which all the structural parts are inside the plywood panels, making for a smooth, triangular surface that is about 10 times easier to glass! But one day in the near or far future, I will at last have these beams glassed, faired and painted. Scott B. Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10984429607322718345noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37487607.post-50607567346218093912011-03-15T08:29:00.000-05:002011-03-15T08:29:56.249-05:00Project UpdateI know it's been a long time since I've posted here and you may wonder what's going on with the <i>Element II </i>build. Near perfect weather has returned and now is the time for boatbuilding here. Look for new photos soon as I will be moving forward with the cockpit and other parts of the connecting structure in the coming weeks. <br />
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The main reason I haven't had time to work on the boat is that I've been so busy with writing projects. My latest book was just released at the beginning of this month and I have a contract for another one that is due to be completed by July 1. In addition, I am simultaneously working on a novel that I also hope to complete around the same time. Here is the cover of the recently released <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Getting-Out-Alive-Scenarios-Survived/dp/1569758735?ie=UTF8&tag=scottsboatpag-20&link_code=btl&camp=213689&creative=392969" target="_blank">Getting Out Alive: 13 Deadly Scenarios and How Others Survived</a><img alt="" border="0" height="1" src="http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=scottsboatpag-20&l=btl&camp=213689&creative=392969&o=1&a=1569758735" style="border: medium none ! important; margin: 0px ! important; padding: 0px ! important;" width="1" />:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Getting-Out-Alive-Scenarios-Survived/dp/1569758735?ie=UTF8&tag=scottsboatpag-20&link_code=btl&camp=213689&creative=392969"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHN1BWgHwh0rAAGXVZ8DYbLSQvUPIX9sGEtL-RC_Mol_YOgFDrObpjf_Oeef70yihVRtmHew4vftnYe5GyAxayVhFwtYi-0cmXzlSHwEUOOC4YwBDhSdJpdX1hAT4vWJ1W7Y8j/s400/Getting+Out+Alive+Front+Cover.jpg" width="256" /></a></div><i> </i> <br />
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It is the latest in a series of survival-related books I'm writing for Ulysses Press, of Berkeley, California. The first was <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Bug-Out-Complete-Escaping-Catastrophic/dp/156975781X?ie=UTF8&tag=scottsboatpag-20&link_code=btl&camp=213689&creative=392969" target="_blank">Bug Out: The Complete Plan for Escaping a Catastrophic Disaster Before It's Too Late</a><img alt="" border="0" height="1" src="http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=scottsboatpag-20&l=btl&camp=213689&creative=392969&o=1&a=156975781X" style="border: medium none ! important; margin: 0px ! important; padding: 0px ! important;" width="1" />, which has been a great success and is in it's second printing and soon to go into a third. <br />
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Some of you may wonder why I'm writing all these survival books and not more boat-related books, as paddling, sailing and boatbuilding are my true passion. The fact is, while I don't consider myself a "survivalist," my previous experiences have put me in a unique position to write about these topics for those who are interested in them. There has been a huge surge of interest in anything to do with survival here in the U.S. in recent years, and it shows no sign of slacking up. I've found that this subject matter is currently the best way for me to reach more readers, which is of course, the ultimate goal of any writer. <br />
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<i>Getting Out Alive </i>is aimed at the armchair reader as well as adventurers who might need to know how to survive certain scenarios. Check it out if like me, you like reading about other people's close calls and harrowing ordeals. <br />
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My biggest challenge now is to find a way to balance writing time with boatbuilding time. With the change to daylight savings time this past Sunday, I should be able to start making progress on the boat again.Scott B. Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10984429607322718345noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37487607.post-22771390438271548182010-10-08T07:29:00.001-05:002010-10-08T07:38:04.460-05:00Net Beam, Anchor Roller, Cockpit, Motor Mount and Deck Mock-UpThe weather has been spectacular here in Mississippi since I moved my hulls out of the shed. They haven't seen a drop of rain so far, and the humidity has been low and the temperature just right for epoxy to cure. I'm working on a lot of miscellaneous projects that had to wait until the boat was assembled for correct measurements and final decisions on details. One of these projects included mocking up the cockpit by temporarily hanging the side panels in the space between the mast beam and the aft beam. I was then able to screw a temporary 2 x 4 in place to represent the height and fore and aft placement of the motor mount, so I could check clearances and make sure it would be the right depth in the water when down and still tilt up high enough clear the surface when sailing. The motor I'll be using is a Nissan 6HP Extra-Long Shaft 4-Stroke. <br />
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I think it's going to work out fine in the space shown for the motor well in cockpit drawing in the plans. Because of the 25-inch shaft, I can mount it a bit higher, which will help prevent it from drowning out in big waves. It will still be pretty low overall in relation to the top of the aft beam, as you can see here:<br />
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The 25-inch shaft will keep the prop deep in the water, with cavitation unlikely. Mounting it forward of the aft beam will also help with this and with proper weight distribution. The board laying across the skids that the hulls are resting on in front of the prop shows that the prop can't hit bottom before the hulls do. <br />
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I've also designed and built the aft net beam in the past few days. I scrapped the idea of using the aluminum pole I had for this, as a wood-composite beam will be easier to mount things to and to finish in a way that matches the boat. I used a V-shaped lamination for the bottom, fit into notches cut in the stern post. The other board is the inner top plate, beveled to fit into the V.<br />
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Here is the next assembly step, putting the inner top plate in place with epoxy.<br />
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This view of the unfinished end shows the final cross-section of the beam. Built of Doug fir, it's plenty strong and stiff while still lightweight because of the hollow area. The piece of wood on the forward edge that stops at the inside of the sternpost is a teak trampoline lashing rail that will be drilled on 3-inch centers for the aft tramp lacing. I'm using teak for all the lashing rails as the holes will be exposed to the weather and most other woods would rot in this use. The sharp edges of the beam corners will get a smooth radius and then the entire beam will be sheathed in fiberglass cloth.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRAIGP03Clm27Q48Ni-JVWvmFatNfqwxtxpytxkz6exYoWngXkpKpusM4T6RrBP1s5D8fKd7br-zb5O2gjy8gxyyaL9sb7mdRoEi7t4hoUwnZlQSD8dT3rFKmzaY-B7KwpnHLV/s1600/SBW_2524.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="307" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRAIGP03Clm27Q48Ni-JVWvmFatNfqwxtxpytxkz6exYoWngXkpKpusM4T6RrBP1s5D8fKd7br-zb5O2gjy8gxyyaL9sb7mdRoEi7t4hoUwnZlQSD8dT3rFKmzaY-B7KwpnHLV/s400/SBW_2524.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Here's view looking aft to show how the beam fits. The triangular design with the low, flat top will allow plenty of clearance for the tillers. There's a lot of usable space back there between the sterns and the aft beam. I can't imagine not having a net beam to take advantage of it. Mine will have a drop-down ladder in the center with tramps to either side. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb9pZNKuZAYS2TAN_9plKZdYVcDGpxps9EV88tZ0UE3QQmFnMb5ZwBrtzPY1UOMSYFBlMzV4duPMF3GJzKYVrqvv0KTO0CqJNMDw9bznLQsdgm1mjSs0aKQEclf2YPLJdILwcy/s1600/SBW_2532.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb9pZNKuZAYS2TAN_9plKZdYVcDGpxps9EV88tZ0UE3QQmFnMb5ZwBrtzPY1UOMSYFBlMzV4duPMF3GJzKYVrqvv0KTO0CqJNMDw9bznLQsdgm1mjSs0aKQEclf2YPLJdILwcy/s400/SBW_2532.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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Anchor handling and storage is often overlooked in the building phase of these boats, but any cruising boat, no matter how simple, relies on good ground tackle, and that ground tackle must be accessible and easy to handle. To that end, I've built a custom anchor roller for the forward beam that nicely accommodates my 22 lb. Delta plow anchor. Anchors in this configuration are difficult to stow anywhere but on a roller, as they are bulky, awkward and take up too much space inside lockers. The roller housing is assembled here for fit, but will be removed for finishing before it is then filleted and glassed onto the beam. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqd5fcYoH7ujoKZ2OZWemeRZYmx1VgfIq6oobuOKOwP4VOZVjHkC1t7z5mQxcJ05GB7n_XxkO3zu2ockhsLNAPcC5j7uF0x910S2_JN3G2RUiN6WbE7dFU1_q3Rn1bA6MQoq-s/s1600/SBW_2533.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqd5fcYoH7ujoKZ2OZWemeRZYmx1VgfIq6oobuOKOwP4VOZVjHkC1t7z5mQxcJ05GB7n_XxkO3zu2ockhsLNAPcC5j7uF0x910S2_JN3G2RUiN6WbE7dFU1_q3Rn1bA6MQoq-s/s400/SBW_2533.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br />
Here's the anchor, salvaged from my previous boat, a much heavier 26-foot monohull. The Delta should be more than adequate as the main anchor on the Tiki. If I were buying a new one, I would probably go with the highly-regarded Rocna design. As it is, I have this one, as well as a smaller CQR and a large Danforth. All three will be on board with appropriate rodes. At the top of the beam, there will be a teak block to receive the shank and hold it in position, and a cleat to secure it with a short line through the forward eye. <br />
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Another big project will be building the slatted deck forward, between the mast beam and the forward beam. I've decided to go this route in lieu of a trampoline, as it is so much better to work on and will last longer. It will also cost about the same or less, as I have ordered locally-grown select-grade southern bald cypress for the material. I considered teak, like David used on his Tiki 30 forward deck, but prices have really gone through the roof, especially for what little teak is available in my area. The cypress will be lighter weight anyway, and should last a long time with care and proper construction. Below, I have mocked up some of the longitudinal stringers out of scrap wood just to get accurate measurements on the amount of material I will need. The longitudinal stringers will hang under the mast and forward beams. Then deck beams across will support the planking, which will put the top of it about even with the built-in ledge on the aft side of the forward beam, making it about 3 inches higher than the adjacent decks on the hulls. The whole assembly will be easily removable as a single unit to aid in disassembly of the boat. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSUlVFnZ1zo1e39IGg0C_WU6HS9jSehYk9RRltoRvDQP4vEbu_jPKF9NtGRb2jJ5bAigOgUYA-BIcRO6_VPGfJCxwyNtonbPw6y_5otnAZVYRrp_45sFoqjW-GhizYP4Y4f4T4/s1600/SBW_2521.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSUlVFnZ1zo1e39IGg0C_WU6HS9jSehYk9RRltoRvDQP4vEbu_jPKF9NtGRb2jJ5bAigOgUYA-BIcRO6_VPGfJCxwyNtonbPw6y_5otnAZVYRrp_45sFoqjW-GhizYP4Y4f4T4/s400/SBW_2521.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>Scott B. Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10984429607322718345noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37487607.post-66023301871042086092010-09-27T19:48:00.000-05:002010-09-27T19:48:42.392-05:00Beams Meet Hulls!Hey, check it out, this thing I've been building all this time really is a catamaran!<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgACisHFjyoYhnwVqpLb0-nemZkGQKZ9dG_8PgEQ1K7lG-BcC2FOWIQTT7oOThOuGPEEffuNk5yd0aesRXMZ8aYGajckzGHFD-kIAEOazj5Fv9rO2TPCDn0fXs0oEDltlYXKX3h/s1600/SBW_2479.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgACisHFjyoYhnwVqpLb0-nemZkGQKZ9dG_8PgEQ1K7lG-BcC2FOWIQTT7oOThOuGPEEffuNk5yd0aesRXMZ8aYGajckzGHFD-kIAEOazj5Fv9rO2TPCDn0fXs0oEDltlYXKX3h/s400/SBW_2479.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br />
Yesterday, I brought the crossbeams from the garage where I built them down to the shed where the hulls were built.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinuPTODZ-vZU4SjSJhEJfQI1ORmcFO7reu6amJ7xiDcuozXQ3ILAQvZXd-mcidzQGwB2KSXweHDQRXimBNdd_7mqwA-eFxxSzvMjo5AhmrFJ-1n-5CIUqFMhyHob_H1mjnE1UM/s1600/SBW_2449.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinuPTODZ-vZU4SjSJhEJfQI1ORmcFO7reu6amJ7xiDcuozXQ3ILAQvZXd-mcidzQGwB2KSXweHDQRXimBNdd_7mqwA-eFxxSzvMjo5AhmrFJ-1n-5CIUqFMhyHob_H1mjnE1UM/s400/SBW_2449.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br />
Today the hulls were rolled out into the open and aligned in the middle of the space between the shed and the house, where I have enough room to work and to step the mast later when it's time for that. I leveled them and blocked them up using the two-wheel carts I made and a hydraulic floor jack. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-G8ziBnf1MGTNjALM-BHLcEu46oY2zRgkrXpmPO9YKobP_CkWKIddd61EipsqWunrrX_JU3slFlbf0G9VQw0ISdCnbMDj6vYdHsaqkPI1kOJ-MnB5rC5jV6myZC-6Mj8iHbU3/s1600/SBW_2458.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-G8ziBnf1MGTNjALM-BHLcEu46oY2zRgkrXpmPO9YKobP_CkWKIddd61EipsqWunrrX_JU3slFlbf0G9VQw0ISdCnbMDj6vYdHsaqkPI1kOJ-MnB5rC5jV6myZC-6Mj8iHbU3/s400/SBW_2458.JPG" width="400" /> </a> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> All this went surprisingly well, even single-handed, again making me glad I went with the Tiki 26 instead of a larger design. I can easily manipulate these hulls for maintenance in the future.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOZ7qlgTwhT-XEXO6mICbNuXzUZNBMCABwC35wEUZj6YLN5C7rqlsGFjdzL5jkVe6UkfDVMHCKK3_0MQj8S83JgEFpakO_yCDRU6C0QrfzRjfHCHIlFi7viR8AFsQY5YP4u022/s1600/SBW_2463.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOZ7qlgTwhT-XEXO6mICbNuXzUZNBMCABwC35wEUZj6YLN5C7rqlsGFjdzL5jkVe6UkfDVMHCKK3_0MQj8S83JgEFpakO_yCDRU6C0QrfzRjfHCHIlFi7viR8AFsQY5YP4u022/s400/SBW_2463.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">These beams are still unfinished, of course. I have a bit of glassing and lots of fairing to do before painting them, as well as the completion of the extra bits for the mast beam, such as the mast step reinforcement and the dolphin striker.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjedR9skj-eHrVi73E1Pcd9p1We0tmI6YCr-2h9SHE5-qclyHE8sC9u6d2AxBk48RchKHMImxiVJmLZJmcigmkUI3xgV-VV4SYdm17Em8TKliDpp16V9Nb2L9oziFNCCwgSXrs2/s1600/SBW_2482-1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjedR9skj-eHrVi73E1Pcd9p1We0tmI6YCr-2h9SHE5-qclyHE8sC9u6d2AxBk48RchKHMImxiVJmLZJmcigmkUI3xgV-VV4SYdm17Em8TKliDpp16V9Nb2L9oziFNCCwgSXrs2/s400/SBW_2482-1.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">At this point, the beams are just strapped onto the inside lashing cleats to keep everything level and secure. I will use rope lashings as in the plans for the final assembly. The beam blocks on the decks will have to be shaped to fit the underside of the beams for a secure contact surface. This could not be done until I reached this stage where the hulls are aligned and leveled with each other. Before the final fitting, I'll fine tune everything with a water level to be sure they are exactly level at all four ends. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhghJT-VmPFVGo9z4oRuddIsaHtw6OiNwEDdvCNjYcCgCgA5xcXbPzpBl79_fDxbbTVhkfGnd87dh0Py5ScDVC_eOjMxg2AiT1b8tLP57iVGNiNwbMsHjb_uvCkPE_6H9956v6I/s1600/SBW_2473.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhghJT-VmPFVGo9z4oRuddIsaHtw6OiNwEDdvCNjYcCgCgA5xcXbPzpBl79_fDxbbTVhkfGnd87dh0Py5ScDVC_eOjMxg2AiT1b8tLP57iVGNiNwbMsHjb_uvCkPE_6H9956v6I/s400/SBW_2473.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Another project will be finishing the paint job on the stern decks, which have non-skid and primer, but no finish coats. Then I'll hang the rudders and paint them in line with the bottom paint and topside paint. And then build the tillers and the tiller bar.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlYkePXsXplZaXh1g6YFO11AHIZXJj5iI3UjWMpzIPr_FDJ1ibhle_OP5_JDnZtp8yGutQewq1W3LQ6exqmd8SwXQRIOyp1rBkzhGkXTGwdYbnOtmogt2ekRaZiIwz8vVrq5Gg/s1600/SBW_2474.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlYkePXsXplZaXh1g6YFO11AHIZXJj5iI3UjWMpzIPr_FDJ1ibhle_OP5_JDnZtp8yGutQewq1W3LQ6exqmd8SwXQRIOyp1rBkzhGkXTGwdYbnOtmogt2ekRaZiIwz8vVrq5Gg/s400/SBW_2474.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">And, there's the small matter of the cockpit and cockpit seats with storage under, and the motor well. Then forward decks, aft boarding ladder, tramps, etc.... But it's starting to look like a boat, and that's inspiring.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9t_ntapYHU5tg6E-BkohM7X-aFxNhKBlSrWrSe3yEXvOqi3tL1cH4QyYehArTb2J-mY6ITj9JwCO0y_BYM6EnFVusJ1Gad7LgyD9Crf4UVlRDasIH0-2nkfFAxIoXGjkvdQz8/s1600/SBW_2490.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9t_ntapYHU5tg6E-BkohM7X-aFxNhKBlSrWrSe3yEXvOqi3tL1cH4QyYehArTb2J-mY6ITj9JwCO0y_BYM6EnFVusJ1Gad7LgyD9Crf4UVlRDasIH0-2nkfFAxIoXGjkvdQz8/s400/SBW_2490.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div>Scott B. Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10984429607322718345noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37487607.post-54083008197364395332010-09-18T21:08:00.000-05:002010-09-18T21:08:49.075-05:00Port Hull OutsideYesterday I moved the port hull most of the way out of the building shed. I was able to install the remaining two windows in each hull this week, despite my injured foot and ankle, so they are now fully "dried-in" and able to be left out in the open. The starboard hull will come out next week after the sealant has a couple more days to dry. I'm leaving the stern decks under cover until I get the non-skid and paint on them. In the meantime, there is a lot of detailing to do on both the deck paint and the green topsides now that I have them out in the open where I can see and work free of the dust in the shed. Here are a few pictures so you can see one of the hulls unobstructed for the first time:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMT2AID7rfNGDkKjneEBmPFsCFsydZoyIbMcVgrd0op-ruYETxqkcHlHebzXDkV-BGuiXKNn42W-K4ttYareag341VVXg1rxa6xlcsrzDB_MpK5VllfP1PFVwHzlC3nRBY23Yb/s1600/SBW_2436.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMT2AID7rfNGDkKjneEBmPFsCFsydZoyIbMcVgrd0op-ruYETxqkcHlHebzXDkV-BGuiXKNn42W-K4ttYareag341VVXg1rxa6xlcsrzDB_MpK5VllfP1PFVwHzlC3nRBY23Yb/s400/SBW_2436.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br />
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The first step today was to wash all the dust off:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZyBexpB1DXFOQbXXiVLQ-PJ0_jh_4kfCt_XC13IQg9VbsSn5qQVDD_t3k0rMdgF2TGl3e0yE5CKJYR06OEqiOciskTSuJQOx8vsu9e5TaNcBCHwAFS3XmWQ6VqBdMlyQtKz3x/s1600/SBW_2443.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZyBexpB1DXFOQbXXiVLQ-PJ0_jh_4kfCt_XC13IQg9VbsSn5qQVDD_t3k0rMdgF2TGl3e0yE5CKJYR06OEqiOciskTSuJQOx8vsu9e5TaNcBCHwAFS3XmWQ6VqBdMlyQtKz3x/s400/SBW_2443.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br />
You can see that the stern deck here is not yet painted, only primed. <br />
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I really like the way these flush-mounted windows came out....<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW6z6SsnTTvI_QLW3Re3QHLb_nF74SEn21Pw3EDQ9Uk1Wm1n7DnB3xo53j0F3g4iraTUnbeLAGEhECfqGT_sRmHmz-OKfYmx1CmA-yfxDPobcweVIK-rUGDxfDgdnzkIQZhOB6/s1600/SBW_2445.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW6z6SsnTTvI_QLW3Re3QHLb_nF74SEn21Pw3EDQ9Uk1Wm1n7DnB3xo53j0F3g4iraTUnbeLAGEhECfqGT_sRmHmz-OKfYmx1CmA-yfxDPobcweVIK-rUGDxfDgdnzkIQZhOB6/s400/SBW_2445.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br />
This view shows the companionway hatch and opening hatch forward. This is one Tiki 26 that will have lots of natural light and ventilation inside.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQqDBY11Xes0_loimX-bbE_MJK7R2GQFSIx-HoZs1WpVw8c_RPoR4PSC4KtFBub1Ug1Y2Q1_1lc2JH-LrHvxxdSmxz1jyAlEQz1vEqusG2L9rzDz-oAeKUHVYhUk55nGQcW9o7/s1600/SBW_2446.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQqDBY11Xes0_loimX-bbE_MJK7R2GQFSIx-HoZs1WpVw8c_RPoR4PSC4KtFBub1Ug1Y2Q1_1lc2JH-LrHvxxdSmxz1jyAlEQz1vEqusG2L9rzDz-oAeKUHVYhUk55nGQcW9o7/s400/SBW_2446.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>Scott B. Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10984429607322718345noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37487607.post-65871701396551685462010-09-08T16:12:00.001-05:002010-09-08T17:23:21.227-05:00Window Installation StepsI completed the installation of the two smaller forward, smaller windows at the beginning of the week. Here are a few photos showing the procedure, as several people have emailed to ask about it since my last two posts. This is my first installation like this, having learned the technique from David Halladay. After asking him all my questions over the phone, I proceeded with it and it turned out great and was easier than it sounded.<br />
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First, here's a view of the prepared inner flange, as it might not have been clear from my last post how this was built. The flange itself is made of 6mm ply, and is 1 1/4" wide all the way around the inside perimeter of the opening. You can see from the shadow that it is set back from the inside of the opening. This is because of the 6mm plywood spacer sandwiched between the flange and the opening. This spacer allows a generous bed of the DOW 795 sealant to fit between the acrylic window and the flange. The space is necessary to allow movement of the acrylic, which expands and contracts at different rates than the wood/epoxy around it. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDhK8Vf3lO0eyInKW8zdkQgeagYwcK5rjg1YdY_P_fzbg2bzh0o0pIVb2h5QdgpTSKM2xps2YInl1ez5QwO_S4cpcv3imbagCHVd3_qf9Xy-6s9z1FwqyBW-ihNN4awoffthUh/s1600/SBW_2397.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDhK8Vf3lO0eyInKW8zdkQgeagYwcK5rjg1YdY_P_fzbg2bzh0o0pIVb2h5QdgpTSKM2xps2YInl1ez5QwO_S4cpcv3imbagCHVd3_qf9Xy-6s9z1FwqyBW-ihNN4awoffthUh/s400/SBW_2397.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br />
The painted area around the window opening is then masked with clean-release tape that won't damage the opening: <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNIXCGivLj6GtQoY41pKUL-hZos5u2OBKi9trRSYRKjsTM3XfiMTOpbjNTV205CcllHCN8jYHjjflC0gtWUDsosRsb2rkzZdC8Zh8yQNLmUEZcqUbEExJXTGnkc1gl47Y2Zmqy/s1600/SBW_2400.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNIXCGivLj6GtQoY41pKUL-hZos5u2OBKi9trRSYRKjsTM3XfiMTOpbjNTV205CcllHCN8jYHjjflC0gtWUDsosRsb2rkzZdC8Zh8yQNLmUEZcqUbEExJXTGnkc1gl47Y2Zmqy/s400/SBW_2400.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br />
The acrylic window, which has been pre-cut and fitted, is now prepared for installation by Super-gluing several flat blocks of plywood to the paper backing that comes on it. These blocks around the perimeter will hold the window panel flush with the outside of the cabin surface. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUFSbhgNcWEaHIpBwgy87arHbRAU4HAamDbtPmOS86K6ZykUW8ngHIqIAi35ErhpueI1rPvNBvJWsvDPhQtFqImgbrls-MaKxb4f_SeW0U3sjAkkQiV64NrrDAAQknnLRWBlpt/s1600/SBW_2403.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUFSbhgNcWEaHIpBwgy87arHbRAU4HAamDbtPmOS86K6ZykUW8ngHIqIAi35ErhpueI1rPvNBvJWsvDPhQtFqImgbrls-MaKxb4f_SeW0U3sjAkkQiV64NrrDAAQknnLRWBlpt/s400/SBW_2403.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br />
On the inside surface it's best to remove the paper backing and tape it with masking tape so it can be pulled off easily after caulking. The masking tape is cut back to the edge of the inner flange. The glue surface of the acrylic and the inner flange is sanded and cleaned prior to application of sealant. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8Yl8egUzbGCSHNdR3dy8vl-uE9ruKULWl67GJbEqzb2hN3g1Ab-hhOOv6gz0n1IzRQUSX3zCvVDgpBvPHe8CuiqNUbJj0vnT9ypKXa2KOw0E2o8r2HixUOtVdpEcgHVfHTJEP/s1600/SBW_2404.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8Yl8egUzbGCSHNdR3dy8vl-uE9ruKULWl67GJbEqzb2hN3g1Ab-hhOOv6gz0n1IzRQUSX3zCvVDgpBvPHe8CuiqNUbJj0vnT9ypKXa2KOw0E2o8r2HixUOtVdpEcgHVfHTJEP/s400/SBW_2404.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br />
This photo shows how the window is held into the exact position in the opening by the glued-on blocks of plywood. Paper masking tape is applied over the clean-release tape, as it glues better than the blue tape. Then blocks of wood are Super-glued to the boat on the paper tape to hold the window in the center of the opening. There is a 3/16" gap all the way around the perimeter of the opening, and these blocks will maintain that position while the sealant cures overnight.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2QlVjJX8zheYnK3O53fQt0y1N7PqkiPdHGYu1aCElbmo3hf_YaSj_xcJYwaA48NXGwk29QVQ_mzDoVCQdyEhRxtlNhyphenhyphenozPVe3m95st8NFESyqGQioa3yWGaaYJ6YuJxP2zmDW/s1600/SBW_2412.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2QlVjJX8zheYnK3O53fQt0y1N7PqkiPdHGYu1aCElbmo3hf_YaSj_xcJYwaA48NXGwk29QVQ_mzDoVCQdyEhRxtlNhyphenhyphenozPVe3m95st8NFESyqGQioa3yWGaaYJ6YuJxP2zmDW/s400/SBW_2412.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br />
The forward window on the starboard side was done at the same time. After getting the blocks set up, the sealant was applied to the flange and the windows set in place. At this point the inside edge can be finished from inside the boat and the blue tape on the inside surface pulled away. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1vTnNcA639zLqqLSP8To4PWWKVuMFzMACt0Kjh-vzZQy746TaeLwentdbrkBNDecq-iBSmdFnlRYoK4QIQtKTGeoAB9vk7x-Zwf8BSfiT_umZFhuBnYdvwwfhqOSqBJbq57NO/s1600/SBW_2414.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1vTnNcA639zLqqLSP8To4PWWKVuMFzMACt0Kjh-vzZQy746TaeLwentdbrkBNDecq-iBSmdFnlRYoK4QIQtKTGeoAB9vk7x-Zwf8BSfiT_umZFhuBnYdvwwfhqOSqBJbq57NO/s400/SBW_2414.JPG" width="267" /></a></div><br />
The next day, after the sealant has cured enough to bond the window in place, the blocks and the brown paper backing are removed. Then the painted surfaces and the edges of the windows are re-masked with blue tape. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6IC9L56S6fF96r09yu-m6fB8ah-MLPwth9GIQXeGrJGKSIKK0vE9Ut4CrA1k0BS2g82HXS1WTGMzqa3huhGoK_7hrlUECytjIWJn_vk8QAy8ARQR6TvH3BN-su4JBzh6TbXr4/s1600/SBW_2416.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6IC9L56S6fF96r09yu-m6fB8ah-MLPwth9GIQXeGrJGKSIKK0vE9Ut4CrA1k0BS2g82HXS1WTGMzqa3huhGoK_7hrlUECytjIWJn_vk8QAy8ARQR6TvH3BN-su4JBzh6TbXr4/s400/SBW_2416.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br />
The last step is to thoroughly fill the outer perimeter of the window, forcing the caulk into any voids left in the first application. The excess caulk squeeze-out is then removed, and the perimeter is tooled with a small filleting tool for a nice, slightly-coved seam. <br />
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At this point, the tape is pulled and the installation is done: <br />
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No screw holes to crack the acrylic or eventually leak, and no outer frames to trap water that could lead to rot.<br />
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Just a clean, flush surface that blends right in to the rest of the cabin sides. With the huge amount of DOW 795 that it takes to fill between the flanges and the acrylic, there's little chance windows installed this way will ever leak or give any other kind of problems.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPGgDyXevYZf_ihflWygbPcmxOIiYtE78_u14zWMu0ocl3NKaIsWaIioe5pxhlzQ4_nbzOkvw7GosdDwXC67lGoQBfAKFZuZuzTCh8yh1Ub0b3gFDZj4Vy0hh_K68R0PmWdLLh/s1600/IMAG0109.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPGgDyXevYZf_ihflWygbPcmxOIiYtE78_u14zWMu0ocl3NKaIsWaIioe5pxhlzQ4_nbzOkvw7GosdDwXC67lGoQBfAKFZuZuzTCh8yh1Ub0b3gFDZj4Vy0hh_K68R0PmWdLLh/s400/IMAG0109.jpg" width="267" /></a></div>Scott B. Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10984429607322718345noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37487607.post-16223339036773547332010-08-30T12:22:00.000-05:002010-08-30T13:14:28.773-05:00Final Word On Portlight ConfigurationOnce again, I've made a change to how the fixed portlights in the outboard sides of the cabin will be installed. My portlight saga is beginning to resemble <a href="http://www.thegledaproject.com/2010/08/13/1695-5hrs-tumblehome-saga-ending/">Neil Hawksford's long-lasting "tumblehome saga" in the building of his Tiki 38, <i>Gleda</i>. </a><br />
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This is the final change though, and the modifications have been completed and the window panels will be installed this week. I decided against the overlay method as described in my last post because with the outer ring frames removed, the openings were of course larger and to have enough bonding surface for the overlay style of installation, the plastic window panels would have to be 1.5 inches wider than the openings all the way around the perimeter, creating disproportionately large windows that would adversely affect the lines of the boat. Though it took a bit of extra work, I decided to do it the right way and the way that windows are installed in practically all modern boats and yachts - with an inner flange for bonding so that the window will be flush with the surrounding cabin side surface. This is what David Halladay recommended from the beginning and I should have listened to him then. It is also the way the windows are fitted in the GRP Tiki 8-Meter, a design David and the Boatsmith crew have now built three examples of, <a href="http://tiki8m.blogspot.com/">counting the new one under construction in his shop now. </a><br />
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Following David's instructions over the phone, I made new inner flanges from 6mm ply. The flanges must overlap the inside cabin surface around the hull by 1 1/4 to 1 1/5 inches to have sufficient glue surface. Then they must overlap the opening by 1 1/4 inches to allow for enough bonding surface for the acrylic window panel, which is cut 1 1/4 inches smaller than the opening all around the perimeter to allow for expansion. The two adhesives of choice are Sikaflex 295UV or DOW 795. I'm using the DOW 795 as it does not require a primer and seems simpler to use. Both are incredibly strong and quite capable of permanently bonding the windows with no fasteners. The key is to bed the window panels on a sufficient thickness of the sealant to allow for movement. To achieve this, I laminated a spacer layer of 6mm ply between the cabin sides and the inner flange rings. That way, when the windows are installed, there will be a 1/4" bed of sealant and the window itself will be flush with the outside cabin surface. More explanation of this later when I do the actual installation and take photos. Here, I am laminating the ring frames with the spacers to the insides of the cabin:<br />
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And this is how the inside frames look now that they are glued in with epoxy. I don't have a shot of the interior side, but on the inside the frames were finished to a nice radius with the router and will be varnished along with everything else inside the cabin. <br />
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The 1/4 inch smoked cast acrylic that I ordered for the companionway drop boards also arrived last week and I cut those to shape using my plywood patterns: The inboard sides of the cabin are not completely faired or painted and won't be until I move the hulls out and fit the beams. Because I don't know the exact dimensions of the cockpit and where the seats will land on the cabin sides yet, I will wait until I can mock that up for accuracy before making and installing the rail upon which the seats will rest on the cabin sides. <br />
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The opening Lewmar portlights for the aft cabin bulkheads have also been dry-fitted and will be installed this week.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHlI62dQ1yZtbnHNpN4yBMqBMEu78xPUt3oFi2kDhmyH7l0Rxp8_XhUHt7oc9GRHNU1TwQNu-YRbpFrE8LhKIP9e71dMNuSIZSLOrlGnlM6zu79uqtlYKtHa1eWRlOXxq507ld/s1600/SBW_2392.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHlI62dQ1yZtbnHNpN4yBMqBMEu78xPUt3oFi2kDhmyH7l0Rxp8_XhUHt7oc9GRHNU1TwQNu-YRbpFrE8LhKIP9e71dMNuSIZSLOrlGnlM6zu79uqtlYKtHa1eWRlOXxq507ld/s400/SBW_2392.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>Scott B. Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10984429607322718345noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37487607.post-77137760728872972352010-08-20T07:33:00.000-05:002010-08-20T07:33:27.358-05:00Moving Backwards and Forward at the Same TimeI've managed to put a lot of time into the project for the past several days, although it may not look like much from the photos. The list of things to do in order to get the hulls completely closed in with all hatches and portlights installed has been long and seems to be growing. But I'm looking at having both of them out of shed shortly, it's just a matter of getting all the paint coats on the various parts done and then installing these components and waiting for the sealants to cure.<br />
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I took a few steps backwards on the portlights, but I think it will be well worth it in the end. I regret all the hours I spent messing around with a plan that I've now scrapped, but better to correct it now than have to do it sometime down the line when I'd rather be sailing. The problem was the ring frames that I made to sandwich the portlights between. For one, I didn't design them with enough clearance between for a proper thickness of sealant, and two, I made the mistake of glassing the outer frames on first, requiring the ports to be installed from the inside. Attaching them from the inside is problematic in many ways, first to make this attachment strong enough, and second, to get a good seal. Another reason for scrapping this idea is that further research and conversations with David Halladay regarding the materials used led me to the conclusion that Lexan is not the preferred lens material and that the ports should be instead made of cast acrylic, which is what all the major hatch manufacturers use.<br />
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So to fix all this, I first had to grind off these nice exterior rings that had been so time-consuming to glass and fair into the sides of the cabins:<br />
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After a few hours with the belt sander and then the 6-inch random orbital sander with 60-grit, I was back to a flat cabin side surface:<br />
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The new portlights will be the overlay style, the perimeters of the lenses overlapping the openings by 1.5 inches all the way around. There will be no holes drilled and no screws or other mechanical fasteners - the lenses will instead be bonded with sealant the same way that most all modern portlights are attached. I was skeptical of this at first, until I realized that this is the way large, heavy glass panels are often installed in skyscrapers and other structures, and until I saw first hand how well it has worked on some of the windows David and the Boatsmith crew have installed. The recommended sealants are either Sikaflex 295UV or DOW 795. I'm going with the DOW 795 because it is a one-part sealant that doesn't require special primers, as does the Sikaflex. <br />
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My order of cast acrylic to make these from arrived yesterday. This is great stuff compared to the Lexan I had before. It comes with a heavy paper protective cover on both sides that's easy to mark and stays in place while you're cutting and sanding. Here you can see my plywood patterns used to mark the outline of the new windows. The small piece in the foreground is a scrap from which I peeled away the paper. It is smoked gray in color, a shade darker than the smoked gray Lexan I had. This cast acrylic is more U.V. resistant and more scratch resistant than Lexan. It's also stiffer so that it wont flex if a wave hits it, which could break the seal. That's why hatch manufacturers use it. If you step on a deck hatch it won't flex under the weight. The only area where it is not is good as Lexan is in impact resistance, which is why Lexan is used in bulletproof windows. Hopefully, no one will be shooting at me, so it's not an issue. <br />
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This material cuts and sands well. I cut out the ports with a circular saw, then rounded the corners with the belt sander.<br />
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Another job completed yesterday was some major sanding of the stern decks, toe rails and sheer stringers, and then the application of the first coat of primer to those areas. Everything on the hulls and decks is now either painted or primed. Today is the first sunny day we have had here in over a week. I will spend the morning putting another coat of paint on the cabin sides, companionway hatches, and other small parts.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT5eCcAz6SjKH_G5i9oLp69qStgobOMjinw9HhiIh-7NWNKvkovk4w6xQ6_yboMzVurTdDKG-X3EufnbDKKHJeMRRzoG8lYwoSRJqiWV90InncVwlE-cfrmedUH7NUYbCbuWQ_/s1600/SBW_2285.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT5eCcAz6SjKH_G5i9oLp69qStgobOMjinw9HhiIh-7NWNKvkovk4w6xQ6_yboMzVurTdDKG-X3EufnbDKKHJeMRRzoG8lYwoSRJqiWV90InncVwlE-cfrmedUH7NUYbCbuWQ_/s320/SBW_2285.JPG" /></a></div>Scott B. Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10984429607322718345noreply@blogger.com2